Few French regional cakes come with as much mystery as gâteau Basque. Its origins are murky, but the cake itself — a buttery shortbread-style casing wrapped around vanilla crème pâtissière and dark cherry compote — is firmly tied to the French Basque Country in the country's far southwest.

A new step-by-step recipe from The Good Life France, written by classically trained pastry chef Jennifer Pogmore, breaks the bake into three manageable stages: a quick cherry compote, a crème pâtissière, and a rich batter of butter, icing sugar, egg, flour and a touch of lemon zest and vanilla. None of the components is difficult; the trick is chilling the cream and compote before assembly so the layers stay clean.

Pogmore — a Le Cordon Bleu alumna who worked in Parisian pastry boutiques before returning to the school as an instructor — builds the cake in a 20cm springform tin, piping spirals of batter for the base and top. The filling goes between: compote first, then the loosened pastry cream. A coat of egg wash, a fork dragged across the top for the traditional scoring, then 45 minutes at 180°C fan (200°C conventional). If the crust browns too fast, foil over the top sorts it out.

There's a proper finish, too: a simple sugar-and-water syrup brushed on while the cake is still hot, which gives the top that subtle sheen and extra moisture. Then patience — the gâteau needs at least two hours of cooling and is meant to be eaten cold. It keeps in the fridge for two to three days, which makes it a good candidate for baking ahead of a weekend gathering.

Quantities are precise (bakers will appreciate the gram weights throughout): 250g butter and 200g icing sugar for the batter, 300g whole milk and 60g sugar for the cream, and 150g cherries for the compote — or 100g of good shop-bought cherry jam if you want to skip a step. It serves eight.

Why does a recipe belong on a travel site? Because gâteau Basque is one of those dishes that defines a place. Order it in a café in Bayonne, Espelette or Saint-Jean-de-Luz and you'll find every family and pâtisserie guards its own version — some filled only with cream, some with black cherries, sometimes a cross scored on top signalling the cream-only purists. Baking one at home is the easiest way to get a taste of the Basque Country before you go, or to stretch the holiday a little longer once you're back.