Condesa has no shortage of boutique hotels, but the new Hotel San Fernando has an advantage none of the newer builds can match: it actually is a piece of the neighbourhood's history. The 19-room property occupies Edificio San Fernando, an Art Deco apartment block completed in 1947 on Iztaccíhuatl Street in the Hipódromo area, and the restoration team — Austin-based Bunkhouse Hotels working with Mexico City studio Reurbano — kept the good stuff intact. Original curved metal front doors now hold new glass made to echo the historic stained glass, and the corridors are wrapped floor-to-wall in the building's soft green encaustic tile. In the hallways, stained glass panels glow in turquoise, emerald, lavender and ochre.

Rooms from $199 a night range from compact Sencillas of roughly 220-250 square feet to 595-square-foot Ocio Suites that can sleep a small group. Interiors keep the apartment bones and add colour: coral-blocked walls, built-ins by local studio La Metropolitano, and red ceramic lamps hand-pinched by Oaxaca artisans Oaxifornia. Most rooms have kitchenettes with pour-over coffee setups, and the art on the walls is largely local, including work by Mexico City's Pedro Friedeberg. Want outdoor space? Book a Vivienda or a rooftop Terraza Suite, both with private balconies.

Two caveats worth knowing before booking: there's no elevator, so mobility needs or heavy luggage are a real issue, and lower-floor rooms catch street noise in a neighbourhood that stays lively late. Light sleepers should request a higher floor. On the plus side, it's dog-friendly.

The social heart is Lounge Fernando, a rose-pink arched lobby bar pouring rare Mexican spirits — pox, sotol, bacanora, raicilla — alongside shareable plates, plus proper zero-proof options. On Saturdays it turns into a small live-music room with Spanish-language lounge sets. Upstairs, a guests-only rooftop serves complimentary breakfast: fruit, pan dulce, and chilaquiles the reviewer reckons beat the bar.

The location does a lot of the work. Parque México, Condesa's green centre, is steps away, and within a few blocks you get Tacos Atarantados, churros at El Moro, Michelin Bib Gourmand-listed Plonk next door, perfume at Perfumérica and a cluster of vintage shops. If Condesa and Roma Norte are on your Mexico City list, this is a convenient and characterful base.