Skiing has a reputation problem: it can feel like a closed club. One writer for Condé Nast Traveller UK decided to test that from the inside, heading to Verbier for her first-ever time on skis and documenting the experience of being a Black woman in a sport where people who look like her are rare. Sport England's 2022 figures show white participants dominate skiing, with Black participation rates too low even to measure — and the reasons are structural, not about appetite. Snow sports get handed down through families, and gear, lessons and passes add up fast, so if nobody in your circle skis, the whole thing stays out of reach.
Verbier turned out to be a smart place to start. It sits within Les 4 Vallées, Switzerland's largest ski area, and the logistics from the UK are easy: around 1 hour 40 minutes flying London to Geneva, then a train connection of about 1 hour 45 minutes. Snow is reliable, the village is attractive, and from the top you can spot Mont Blanc.
Her setup streamlined the cost and hassle side. She rented gear from Cirkel Supply, picking outerwear online and finding the mid and outer layers waiting at her chalet on arrival. Lessons came from two schools — Alpinemojo for the basics (the 'pizza' wedge, turning, bracing your core like a roller skater) and Adrenaline for a humbling second session. Her takeaway is useful for any adult beginner: she fell repeatedly, hit a mental block, and needed an instructor's pep talk to keep going. Verbier isn't the gentlest learning ground, but she improved faster there than she believes she would have on easier slopes.
As for the elephant on the piste: she was hypervisible, the way you are almost anywhere in Antarctica, but never felt unwelcome. Strangers were warm at mountain restaurants and around the village; a family even recognised her from her wobbly lesson the day before.
If you're planning your own Verbier base camp, the piece suggests Chalet Kitsalano, a five-bedroom, three-floor chalet for up to 10 guests with a gym, outdoor hot tub, boot warmers, chauffeur service and an in-house chef. Non-skiing options are strong too: tandem paragliding flights of 20-35 minutes with Verbier Summits (launching below the Ice Cube bar), and a 5km dog-sledding ride at Les Ruinettes with Aline Luisier's husky team. For a recovery day, Le SPA W Verbier sells day passes with two heated pools, a jacuzzi, a Himalayan salt sauna and steam rooms — no overnight stay required.
Eating is half the fun. Le Farinet splits into a calm oyster-and-cocktail room and a raucous live-music side, so arrive early to beat the queue. Le Grenier, inside Le Chalet d'Adrien, does table-grilled braserade and raclette. The showstopper is the Igloo du Mont Fort at 3,330 metres — billed as Europe's highest fondue, with views over 110-plus peaks including the Matterhorn, no booking needed.
The wider point lands beyond one trip: exclusivity in skiing isn't just about access to slopes, it's about language, confidence and community. One week was enough to crack the insider slang, the memes and the shared jokes — the kind of entry point that could, eventually, get passed down a generation.
