As Nepal's autumn climbing season moves into its second half, attention has shifted to Ama Dablam, the 6,812m peak that has become late fall's busiest commercial climb. While commercial expeditions on Manaslu and Dhaulagiri folded early this year due to poor conditions, a Sherpa rope-fixing team enjoyed calm weather and good snow on Ama Dablam, fixing 800 metres of rope in a single five-hour push and reaching the summit on October 13 shortly before noon. The team of six — Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, Lal Kumar Tamang, Dawa Paljor Sherpa, Lakpa Sangay Sherpa, Pasang Tenji Sherpa and Namgel Dorje Tamang — opened the door for the crowds to follow.

The numbers behind this peak are striking. Nepal's Department of Tourism had issued 178 foreign climbing permits as of October 13, with more expected before the season closes at the end of November. Last autumn, the Himalayan Database recorded a remarkable 100% summit rate: 273 foreign climbers all reached the top, supported by 399 Sherpas, for 500 total summits. Compare that to 2015, when just 123 people summited and the success rate sat at 71%. Last year saw anywhere from 10 to 30 climbers topping out daily between mid-October and late October, and almost every day in November.

Part of the appeal is practical. At 6,812m, Ama Dablam sits low enough that most climbers can acclimatise without supplemental oxygen, especially if they've trained at altitude or climbed a trekking peak beforehand. Its position in the Khumbu Valley — on the well-trodden path toward Everest — means good infrastructure, plenty of lodges year-round, and a straightforward approach trek. From the flat, snowy summit, the views of Everest and Lhotse are among the best in the range. Outfitters love it too: the broad, flat Base Camp accommodates dozens of tents and a helipad, and a full summit cycle can take as little as three or four days once clients are acclimatised, letting companies cycle equipment and staff through the season efficiently.

Climbing continues into early winter, with a handful of teams attempting the mountain in December when days are cold but stable and sunny. Twelve foreign climbers and six Sherpas summited during last year's December window.

That said, easy logistics have bred complacency. Rescues have risen in recent years, and while helicopters can perform long-line airlifts from Camp 3, that option vanishes in bad weather. Frostbite, altitude sickness, and injuries from falling rock and ice remain real hazards — and two clients died last season. Ama Dablam may be commercialised, but it still demands respect.

First climbed in March 1961 via the Southwest Ridge by a New Zealand-British-American team, the peak now carries ropes and heavy Sherpa support on its normal route — a far cry from its pioneering days.