Two long-distance hikers pushing southbound along France's Hexatrek have just completed the trail's fourth stage — 500-plus kilometres through the gorges and valleys of the country's scorched south — and their report is a mix of swollen rivers, ladders bolted to cliffs, and a lot of walking after dark.
Stage 4 is the flattest of the Hexatrek's six sections, with around 14,389 metres of elevation gain spread across the distance, but it's also the driest and, in a summer heatwave, arguably the hardest. The heat is serious enough that other thru-hikers warned them off it entirely, with some skipping the section or flipping ahead to the Pyrenees and returning in autumn. Our hikers pressed on anyway, restarting at Châteauneuf-du-Rhône from a campground that charged just €13 for two people — the cheapest of the trail so far.
The early days were a reality check. Instead of Alpine climbs, the route followed roads, wide forest tracks and rolling hills, shared mostly with wild boars that rummaged through the bushes at dusk and pushed the pair into a new habit: night hiking. It's not their favourite style, but after sunset the punishing heat finally lets up, and they could knock out 30-40km days, even a couple of marathon days over 42km.
The Gorges de l'Ardèche was the surprise. A signpost claims temperatures there can hit 60°C, and the trail itself turned technical fast — boulder scrambles, sand, overgrown paths, sheer rock faces with chains and ladders, and one squeeze through a narrow hole in the cliff. Their pace dropped to 2km/h, and rules meant an unplanned night inside the reserve at an official campsite costing €15 per person. Other oddities along the way: a route straight through a nudist campground, two thigh-deep river crossings in a single day, and — yes — scorpions in southern France.
Water turned out less scary than expected. The pair drank around five litres each per day but only needed to carry up to 3.5 litres, thanks to careful planning between sources. The real daily grind was overgrown paths and heat exhaustion, with clothes soaked through and sweat stinging their eyes by midday.
The highlight came on the Gorges du Tarn, where the trail offers a 21km canoe alternate. Local rental companies have caught on to thru-hikers and will transport luggage to the take-out point and collect the boats afterwards. It's still hard paddling — low water left them stuck a few times — but gliding down a canyon beats grinding out kilometres on a dusty track.
For holidaymakers, this stage shows a different side of southern France beyond the postcard villages: wild gorges, canoe routes, riverside campsites, and hiking best done at dawn and dusk in summer. If you'd rather not sweat through it, the hikers' own workaround — doing this section in autumn — is a solid tip. Story reported by The Trek.
