Most travellers treat Java as the place they fly into before hopping straight to Bali. That's a mistake, argues a new guide from Young Pioneer Tours — the island is home to the capital Jakarta, some of Southeast Asia's grandest ancient monuments, volcanic highlights like Bromo and Ijen, and arguably the best food in Indonesia.

Java packs around 156 million people into roughly 128,000 square kilometres, making it one of the most densely populated islands on earth. It's also where Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms built Borobudur and Prambanan, where Dutch colonialism left its mark, and where independence was declared in 1945. Today it's a mix of megacities, rice terraces, tea plantations and traditional villages — all linked by one of the most useful rail networks in Southeast Asia.

The classic route runs west to east. Jakarta is chaotic but fascinating: the colonial buildings of Kota Tua, the old harbour at Sunda Kelapa and street food worth the trip alone. Bandung, in the cooler West Java highlands, adds crater lakes and a creative cafe scene. Yogyakarta is the cultural heart — the Sultan's Kraton, batik workshops and easy access to Borobudur and Prambanan. Quieter Solo nearby is often skipped, which is exactly why it rewards a stop, with royal palaces and its signature nasi liwet rice. Surabaya is East Java's working port city and the launchpad for Mount Bromo, while Banyuwangi at the eastern tip is where you hike Mount Ijen's famous blue flames before catching the ferry to Bali.

Then there's the eating. Five dishes the guide singles out: durian served with grated cheese in Yogyakarta (yes, really — from around US$10 a portion at Lazorta Durian), Bandung's fried batagor dumplings with peanut sauce for a couple of dollars, gudeg — jackfruit slow-cooked in coconut milk and palm sugar — best around Wijilan near the Kraton, Solo's nasi liwet, and Surabaya's rawon, a black beef soup coloured by keluak seed, famously served late into the night at Rawon Setan.

The train is the smart way to cover it all. The Whoosh high-speed line does Jakarta to Bandung in under an hour from about US$17, while conventional services connect the whole island — Yogyakarta to Surabaya in under five hours from as little as US$5, and overnight options running all the way to Banyuwangi. Tickets are cheap but popular services sell out, so book ahead.

For anyone with a week or two in Indonesia who wants temples, volcanoes and genuinely great food without Bali's crowds, Java is the answer. Start in Jakarta, ride east, and hop the ferry when you're done — or skip Bali entirely.

Guide via Young Pioneer Tours.