Most visitors heading to northern England race straight to Manchester, Liverpool or Leeds — and skip the small towns in between. Bury, a former mill town of about 80,000 people roughly half an hour from Manchester, is quietly making a case for itself as a proper day trip or weekend stop.

Its strongest card is food. Bury Market, trading for nearly six centuries and recently crowned the best market in the country, is the place to try the town's signature dish: black pudding, a Lancashire classic made with pork blood, fat and oatmeal. Chadwick's and The Bury Black Pudding Company are the famous stalls, but the market has gone global too — look for Turkish flatbreads and shawarma at Gözleme, Middle Eastern plates at Falafels and More, and mooncakes and other Asian treats at Moliuliu's Store. In town proper, Help Me Thro' pub does cheese and onion pie and proper fish and chips, while Biagio's on Silver Street is a reliable Italian favourite.

Culture-wise, the compact centre is easy on foot. Bury Art Museum, with free entry Tuesday to Saturday, sits on the 33-mile Irwell Sculpture Trail and includes a contemporary Sculpture Centre. The MET, a Victorian venue named Small Music Venue of the Year at the 2017 Northern Soul Awards, puts on gigs, comedy and workshops. History fans get two more stops: the Bury Transport Museum, with vintage buses, trams and trucks in a refurbished 19th-century warehouse across from the station, and the Fusilier Museum covering 300 years of the Lancashire Fusiliers.

The big experience, though, is the East Lancashire Railway. This heritage line, built in the mid-1800s, runs over 10 miles through the Irwell Valley, linking Bury with Ramsbottom, Summerseat, Irwell Vale and Rawtenstall. Beyond ordinary rides, it hosts 1950s First Class carriage afternoon teas, murder mystery nights and Christmas dinners.

For fresh air, Burrs Country Park is two miles from the centre — 36-plus hectares of woodland and trails, wildlife, picnic spots, and a Caravan and Motorhome Club campsite with more than 100 pitches if you want to stay overnight.

Why bother? Because Bury delivers the things people love about Manchester — markets, museums, music, good pubs — at a slower pace and without the crowds. It pairs perfectly with a city break: base yourself in Manchester, hop over by car, bus or the Metrolink, and spend a day eating black pudding and riding a steam-age railway through the valley.