A mile outside Yellowstone's northwest corner sits a ranch that's been hosting guests since 1922, when WWI veteran Ernest Miller and his wife Grace pitched a tent on the property and never really left. Elkhorn Ranch, now on the National Register of Historic Places, still runs on Miller's original vision: 15 log cabins built from locally harvested timber, set on mountainous acreage about 34 miles north of West Yellowstone, Montana.

The pitch here is a genuine digital detox. There are no televisions, no in-cabin Wi-Fi and no cell service — though the circa-1930s cabins have been quietly modernised with running water, showers, clawfoot tubs, wood stoves and electric heat. Daily cabin service, reading lights and space for up to eight guests mean some families stretch their stays well past a week. Porches face the Rockies, which does most of the entertaining.

Horses are the heart of the operation. Guests are matched with one of 100 ranch horses suited to their ability, and professional wranglers make sure everyone is comfortable in the saddle before heading out. Rides can be family-wide or split by age — teens riding together, younger kids on ponies. If you don't own Western gear, the ranch lends hats and boots.

Anglers get blue-ribbon water on site: the Gallatin River runs straight through the property, with cutthroat, brown and rainbow trout, plus loaner rods, waders and casting clinics. The famous Madison River, one of America's most storied fly-fishing streams, is only a few miles away. Hikers get guided outings Monday through Friday each summer, with routes scaled from mellow wildflower valleys to rugged mountain climbs — and decent odds of spotting moose and elk along the way.

The programme is built around families: kids aged 6 to 12 and teens get curated group activities including riding, games and shared meals, while adults-only weeks cater to couples, solo travellers and multi-generational groups. Rates include three meals a day, gratuities and all guided experiences, with Wi-Fi available in the office if you must. In winter, weekend sleigh rides come with lunch or dinner.

Getting there is straightforward: fly into Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (BZN) and drive about 58 miles south. For anyone who wants Yellowstone's wilderness without the park's crowds — and a saddle, a fly rod and a wood stove thrown in — this is a rare, nearly unchanged piece of the American West. One Tripadvisor regular has been coming since childhood and, now a grandfather, calls the place "a little bit of heaven."