Most drivers hurrying between Richmond and Norfolk blow straight through Hopewell without a second glance. That's a mistake. Sitting at the spot where the Appomattox River meets the James, this small Virginia city — nicknamed the "Wonder City" — packs riverfront dining, Civil War history and a walkable historic district into a genuinely worthwhile overnight stop.

The nickname is about resilience. European settlers arrived in the 1600s, the area saw Revolutionary War skirmishes, and during the Civil War it became a major Union supply port and the headquarters of General Ulysses S. Grant during the Siege of Petersburg. Then in 1915 a fire destroyed hundreds of downtown buildings. Hopewell rebuilt, and much of what you see today — including the Art Deco and Colonial Revival Beacon Theatre, which still hosts live shows — dates from that recovery.

Food is the main draw for most visitors, and it leans heavily on the water. The Boathouse at City Point, in the oldest part of town, serves crab cake sandwiches, boiled seafood platters and beer-battered fish and chips from a patio overlooking both rivers, and it has racked up thousands of glowing reviews for its views and Southern comfort food. Away from the waterfront, Good Ship Brewing & Eatery is Hopewell's first brewery, pairing in-house craft beer with wood-fired pizza and live music on select nights. For barbecue, locals point to Saucy's Sit-Down Bar.B.Q., a no-fuss spot for smoked meats and hearty sides.

History buffs get plenty too. Weston Manor, an 18th-century plantation house run by the Historic Hopewell Foundation, still holds much of its original woodwork — reviewers rave about the fireplaces — and it doubled as Union General Philip Sheridan's headquarters. Guided tours run April 1 to December 15, Tuesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and Sundays from 1 p.m., costing $8 for adults. In the City Point neighbourhood, an open-air museum stitches together dozens of historic sites, including Grant's headquarters at Appomattox Manor and St. John's Episcopal Church, standing since the 1840s.

Why bother with the detour? Because Hopewell works as a low-key base in a corner of Virginia most people rush through. It's roughly 30 minutes from Richmond International Airport, which is the closest air gateway, and it puts you within easy reach of both Richmond and the Petersburg battlefields, while the riverside walk and old theatres give you something to do in the evening. Accommodation ranges from local hotels to private rentals, so an overnight stop is easy to arrange — and considerably more relaxing than doing the Richmond-to-Norfolk drive in one push.