Most visitors to England stick to London, maybe add Brighton or Oxford. Meanwhile, small market towns like Steyning in West Sussex quietly carry on with cobbled courtyards, cream teas and bookshops — often without a coach tour in sight.

Steyning sits about an hour's drive from Portsmouth to the west and Eastbourne to the east (roughly two hours by train and bus from either), right on the edge of the South Downs National Park. That makes it a handy base if you want rolling chalk hills on your doorstep without giving up good food and shops.

The High Street is the draw. Brick cottages and half-timbered Tudor-era facades frame a run of independent boutiques, starting with The Steyning Bookshop, which has occupied a whitewashed cottage for over 40 years and stocks everything from local guidebooks to kids' titles — plus cards and plushies for souvenirs. Further along, the Cobblestone Walk is a covered arcade of rustic storefronts gathered around a cobbled courtyard: handmade jewellery and bath products at Flicker Rose, whimsical ceramics at Pot Luck Creations, and jars of bonbons and toffee at The Little Sweet Shop, which occupies a 16th-century Grade II listed building. On the first Saturday of each month, the High Street hosts a farmers market with local produce and crafts.

When your feet give out, this is prime afternoon tea territory. The Cobblestone Tea House sits at the heart of the Cobblestone Walk in a half-timbered cottage dating to the 15th century — the cream tea set pairs a pot of tea with warm scones, clotted cream and jam. Victoria's Sponge, a short walk from the bookshop, earns a Tripadvisor Traveller's Choice award and gets specific praise for its lemon and elderflower cake. For something more pub-like, the Chequer Inn has poured for travellers on the High Street since the 1400s and serves straightforward fare like burgers and soup of the day.

History isn't hard to find either. Church Street leads to St Andrew and St Cuthman's Church, where Norman arches and pillars are the headline act, with Steyning Museum directly across the street. If you're staying over, Springwells is a boutique hotel in a Georgian manor on the High Street, while Pepperscombe Farm offers upscale holiday cottages with countryside views just outside town.

Steyning works well as a day trip from the south coast, a stop on a South Downs walking holiday, or a slow weekend for anyone who rates antique-hunting and cake above sightseeing checklists. Alfriston — a medieval village full of antique shops — is about 40 minutes away, with Petworth and Midhurst close behind if you want to string together a proper small-town tour of Sussex.