Every long-distance hike has days where the biggest achievement is a plate of food and a movie ticket. At the end of September, two Appalachian Trail thru-hikers hit exactly that stretch of the trail, and their two days in western Maine say a lot about how modern thru-hiking actually works.
The drama was weather-driven: a Nor'easter was forecast to sweep through, and the pair made the call most seasoned hikers eventually make — sit it out. They spent a full zero day in Rangeley, the lakeside town that serves as a natural pit stop for northbound hikers in the final weeks of a 2,190-mile trek. The itinerary was refreshingly unheroic: brunch at the local pub, a screening of the new Spiderman film, and general recharging. Fittingly, the storm turned out to be less severe than feared, though no forecast could promise that in advance. It's a small reminder of a big thru-hiking truth: you plan around what the mountains might do, not what they will.
The next day brought the fun part of the schedule — a "slackpack-style skip" by shuttle north to Monson, the last real town before the infamous 100 Mile Wilderness. That stretch is the AT's longest roadless run, and Monson is where hikers load up on food and nerve before committing to it. Their destination was Shaw's Hiker Hostel, arguably the most storied stop on the entire trail, famous among thru-hikers for hearty food and a decades-long reputation as the gateway to the Wilderness.
The verdict on Shaw's is a nicely grounded one: yes, it's legendary, and yes, it's lovely — but it's still a hostel. Dorm beds, shared space, board games. The highlight of the evening was an ongoing chess grudge match between the writer and his dad, which dad continued to win. That's the real texture of trail life at this stage: after five months of walking, the glamour has faded and the simple pleasures — a dry bunk, a hot meal, losing to your father at chess — are the whole point.
Why should a regular traveller care? Because this corner of Maine works even if you'll never hike 2,000 miles. Rangeley makes a genuinely good base for a leaf-peeping autumn escape, with lakes, golf and serious fall colours in late September. And Monson-to-Shaw's is a pilgrimage worth making for day-hikers and section hikers too: stay at the hostel, eat the famous breakfast, and sample the southern edge of the 100 Mile Wilderness without committing to all of it. Late September is prime season — cooler air, fewer bugs and foliage near its peak — but it's also nor'easter season, so build a weather day into any Maine plans. Sometimes the best day of a trip is the one you spend indoors.
Story via The Trek.
