A city that gave America its first library, first hospital, first stock exchange and first zoo has spent decades being underrated for one thing in particular: dinner. Philadelphia's founding-era résumé is unrivalled — it was even the US capital before Washington, DC existed — yet its rise as a genuine food destination has flown under the radar for years. That, argues chef and journalist Ari Miller, is changing.

Miller, who has cooked and written about food in Philadelphia for years, points to a small but telling moment. At an anniversary dinner at Friday Saturday Sunday, one of the city's most acclaimed restaurants, he struck up a conversation with a stranger dining solo. The man's husband loved opera; he loved food. They took turns watching the kids, and this was his night off — which he chose to spend on a dedicated food trip to Philadelphia. For Miller, it was the first clear sign that people were now travelling to the city specifically to eat, not just passing through between New York and Washington.

That matters because destination dining changes a city. When travellers plan weekends around restaurant reservations rather than historic sites alone, chefs gain the confidence — and the customer base — to push harder. Friday Saturday Sunday, tucked into Rittenhouse Square, is a prime example of the kind of intimate, tasting-menu-driven spot that now anchors the scene, the sort of room that would have once been unthinkable outside bigger food capitals.

Philadelphia's strengths are familiar to anyone who has paid attention: a deep, immigrant-shaped BYOB and neighbourhood restaurant culture, a legendary market tradition anchored by the Reading Terminal Market, and a low enough cost base that talented cooks can afford to open their own rooms. Add the old guard — cheesesteaks, roast pork sandwiches, the Italian Market — and you get a city where a serious eating weekend costs noticeably less than the equivalent in Manhattan.

For travellers, the takeaway is simple. Philly is an easy, walkable food city with a compact centre: base yourself around Rittenhouse Square or Fishtown, book the tasting-menu places well ahead, and fill the gaps with market stalls and corner BYOBs. It pairs neatly with New York or Washington by train, but increasingly it doesn't need the company — some visitors are now coming just for the table.

Full story via Roads & Kingdoms.