Chicago's Union Station opened in 1925 and it still feels like the main event rather than a waiting room. The beaux-arts building is widely regarded as the finest stop on Amtrak's long-distance network, and its Great Hall is the reason why: towering columns, arched ceilings, sweeping staircases, wooden benches and big skylights that make the whole space feel more like a grand civic temple than a transport hub. Anyone who has endured a soulless airport terminal will find it a genuinely uplifting place to kill an hour.
The station is also one of the most connected spots in American rail. Beyond the suburban Metra services, 16 Amtrak routes depart from here, reaching cities as far-flung as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle and New Orleans. One of the classic rides is the California Zephyr to Denver, a journey of just under 20 hours through the Midwest and across the plains towards the Rockies.
If you're travelling in a sleeper car, you get access to Amtrak's Metropolitan Lounge inside the station — free drinks, snacks and Wi-Fi, plus staff who escort you to the platform when it's time to board. It's a civilised buffer before a long ride, and a good spot for people-watching; the writer of the original review ended up chatting with an Amish family whose connecting train was delayed. Everyone else can leave bags with Amtrak's storage service for $US20 per item.
Food-wise, the station itself is functional rather than exciting — a food court of familiar fast-food chains, plus a newsstand and a gourmet nut and chocolate shop. But step outside and the options improve fast. Lou Mitchell's, a short walk away at 565 W Jackson Boulevard near the old start of Route 66, has been feeding travellers for over a century and still hands out complimentary donut holes. For something more indulgent, a branch of Giordano's sits across the Chicago River at 223 W Jackson, serving deep-dish pizza well into the night.
With a few hours to spare, Willis Tower is the obvious draw. Its Skydeck offers sweeping views over the city and Lake Michigan, and the building now houses Color Factory Chicago, a bright, photo-friendly exhibition space. Shoppers can browse Catalog, the tower's five-floor food and retail zone named for former occupant Sears and its famous mail-order catalogues, or wander the West Loop's fashion and gift shops. A pleasant way to round things off: ride the elevated train from Quincy to Clark/Lake and walk the Chicago Riverwalk, taking in historic architecture like the Wrigley Building.
For anyone planning a US rail adventure, Union Station works as both a destination in itself and the ideal launchpad. Arrive early, eat well, look up at that ceiling, and let the journey start before you even board. The station was rated four stars out of five by the reviewing writer — a grand old hub still doing its century-old job with style.
Reviewed for Traveller (Sydney Morning Herald).
