Two months after a wildfire tore through moorland near Glenmore and Abernethy — more than 33 sq km burned, over 500 firefighters deployed, an emergency response lasting a month — the Cairngorms are sliding into autumn. Bracken turning russet, birch leaves edged in gold, and, remarkably little visible damage for anyone riding through. Most of the burned ground sits high on the hills, far from the roads.
That's the backdrop to a gravel-bike test of new bikepacking routes developed by Legendary Rides and Bikepacking Scotland. The trip starts in Aviemore, reachable from Edinburgh on an electric Ember bus that takes booked bikes on board. With parts of the original route near Glenmore and Ryvoan bothy still closed, the revised line heads towards Nethy Bridge instead, past Loch Garten and its famous ospreys.
The fire left its mark on local businesses even where it didn't leave it on the scenery. Graham Niven, who runs self-catering cabins at Arbor Nethy and volunteered with the RSPB-coordinated firefighting effort, says bookings dipped after headlines branded the blaze 'apocalyptic' — yet less than 10% of the ancient Caledonian pinewood was affected. The Dell of Abernethy, a nearby stay, reports the same slow October. Locals are keen to make the point that visitors returning is exactly what the area needs.
East of Nethy Bridge, the character shifts: deep forest gives way to grouse moors, empty gravel roads and whisky country — the route rolls straight through the Glenlivet Distillery grounds. Day one ends in Tomintoul with curry and beer at Hotel Square; day two tackles 18th-century military roads, passes the 16th-century tower of Corgarff Castle, and finishes at off-grid Cairngorm Bothies, where a nature journal records children's sightings of red squirrels. There's a stop at Burn O'Vat, a glacial pothole in the Muir of Dinnet reserve, coffee in Ballater, a climb over Capel Mounth above Loch Muick on the Balmoral estate, then gentler miles down Glen Clova to Alyth, finishing near Pitlochry.
Legendary Rides sells this as a self-guided, four-day package from £759pp, covering route planning, accommodation, breakfast, GPX files and WhatsApp backup, with shorter options for rough weather or tired legs. The routes deliberately use Scotland's right-to-roam rules — pass through, leave no trace, close gates.
Autumn is arguably the best window: midges gone, roads quiet, golden light. And for anyone hesitating because of July's headlines, the locals' message is blunt — the forest is fine, and it would love to see you.
