Every 1 and 2 November, Mexico fills with marigolds, candlelit altars and processions for Día de los Muertos — and the most atmospheric celebrations happen far from the resorts. Two names come up again and again: Pátzcuaro in Michoacán and Oaxaca City. Both are spellbinding during the festival, and both get overwhelmed with visitors.

Pátzcuaro, an ancient highland town in the mountains west of Mexico City, is the classic pick. Its lakeside villages host some of the country's most moving observances, and demand reflects that: hotels there often sell out during the summer for November, with the most characterful places booked a year or more ahead. Oaxaca City has more hotel stock, so rooms are easier to find, but anything centrally located still goes early — late bookers usually end up outside the historic centre or in nearby towns.

Shared home rentals have widened the options in both places, which helps on dates this popular. Just expect higher rates, and be prepared to stay in a village and travel in for the festivities.

Getting there takes planning too. For Pátzcuaro, fly into Morelia's international airport (direct from Mexico City and several US cities), then drive about an hour and a half. By road from the capital, it's roughly four hours by luxury coach to Morelia, plus another hour onward, or four-and-a-half to five hours driving yourself on tolled highways 15D and 14D. Oaxaca has its own international airport about 30 minutes from the centre, with flights from Mexico City and the US; buses take six to seven hours from the capital, or you can drive in about six hours via the 150D and 135D toll roads. Whichever route you choose, flights and buses get busy in the days either side of the festival.

It's worth stressing what the occasion actually is. Despite the skeletons, this isn't a sombre affair — it's about remembering loved ones and celebrating the continuity of life. Expect markets piled with cempasúchil flowers, pan de muerto with hot chocolate, elegant Catrina figures and family altars stacked with offerings. The mood is warm, communal and genuinely local, especially in smaller provincial towns.

For anyone who wants to witness one of the world's great cultural festivals at its most authentic, Day of the Dead in Michoacán or Oaxaca belongs near the top of the list. The practical takeaway is simple: pick your town, lock in accommodation as early as you can, and sort your transport before everyone else does.