Delta is quietly staging a wine comeback. From October 1, its long-haul business class (Delta One) gets Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon — the 2021 Napa Valley bottling that retails around $165 — while Taittinger Champagne rolls out on premium domestic transcon routes. Thirteen wines from 11 wineries are joining the programme, rotating through the year: Trefethen Cabernet, Crossbarn Pinot Noir and Freemark Abbey Chardonnay for domestic Delta One, St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc on both domestic and international, and Patz & Hall Chardonnay on long-haul from spring 2027.

The writer behind View from the Wing, who sampled the lineup, is most taken with the Silver Oak (dark fruit, modest tannins, though high alcohol can be tricky in a pressurised cabin), the Trefethen with beef, and the fruit-forward Crossbarn Pinot alongside chicken or mushroom dishes. The Rioja reserves from Ontañón and Cune get a nod as versatile all-rounders. Verdict: a big step up from Delta's previously lacklustre list, and clearly ahead of American Airlines' more modest May refresh — but United still holds the crown.

United committed $35 million to wine as part of a $150 million food and drink overhaul, with Polaris bottles that have included The Mascot (about $179) and VIK ($159). American, meanwhile, is rebuilding after a stretch that saw roughly $8 Chardonnay in international first class: it now pours Truchard Chardonnay and Decoy Cabernet on international routes, Migration and Justin Cabernet on premium transcons.

There's a real science angle here. Low cabin pressure, dry air and engine noise dull flavour perception, which is why airlines lean on bold, fruity reds — delicate wines like the Jean-Marc Brocard Petit Chablis on Delta's list can taste thin in the air unless served at the right temperature. Singapore Airlines even has a pressurised tasting room at its headquarters. And a good list only works if crews can talk about it: Delta runs a Sky Sommelier training programme, Emirates launched three levels of wine courses in 2024, and Singapore trains dedicated Air Sommeliers.

If you're booking premium cabins, wine is now a genuine differentiator among the US carriers. Delta's gap has narrowed; United's depth still wins; American is no longer an afterthought.