Hanoi's classical music heart beat to a jazz rhythm recently, as the Việt Nam National Academy of Music marked seven decades with a concert that refused to sit neatly in any one genre. Jazz & Friends X drew close to a hundred performers from Việt Nam and overseas onto the academy's stage, delivered across 16 performances over the course of the celebration.

The programme was deliberately wide-ranging. Jazz was the anchor, but the arrangements pulled in a chamber orchestra and traditional Vietnamese instruments, letting improvisation sit alongside textures most audiences associate with concert halls rather than jazz clubs. Organisers framed the event around three ideas: freedom, improvisation and creativity — which, in practice, meant musicians from very different traditions sharing the same stage and trading licks rather than performing in silos.

The setting matters as much as the music. The Việt Nam National Academy of Music is the country's oldest and most prestigious music institution, and its 70th anniversary doubled as a snapshot of how far Vietnamese musical life has travelled. A generation ago, a jazz concert weaving Vietnamese traditional instruments into big-ensemble arrangements would have been a curiosity. Now it's the headline act for an institutional birthday, with international guests treating Hanoi as a legitimate stop on the global jazz circuit.

For travellers, the takeaway is simple: Hanoi's music scene goes well beyond the folk performances and water puppet shows that fill most itineraries. The academy trains the country's serious classical and contemporary talent, and its halls host concerts that visitors can often attend at modest prices. Beyond the academy, the city has a small but loyal jazz following, with venues around the Old Quarter and French Quarter putting on live sets several nights a week — a pleasantly low-key evening option after a day of street food and temple-hopping.

Jazz & Friends itself has apparently become a recurring fixture — the Roman numeral X suggests a decade of editions — so if your trip lines up with an anniversary year or a festival season, it's worth checking what's on at the academy before you travel. Even without a headline event, catching a student recital or faculty concert there gives you a slice of local cultural life most tourists never see.