Day seven of a Pennine Way thru-hike turned out to be the writer's favourite stretch yet — and it's easy to see why. The route from Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale packs in some of the Yorkshire Dales' most famous geology, a proper fell climb, and a conveniently placed pub at the finish.
The day began at Lister Barn, where a drying room saved the walker from putting damp clothes back on — a small luxury that made leaving hard. The first big stop was Malham Cove, the enormous horseshoe-shaped limestone cliff that most people will recognise from film and television. Getting to the top means tackling more than 400 steps, but the reward is the striking limestone pavement on the summit, carved over centuries by water and wind. It's worth noting the site has a sombre side too: signs at the top encourage anyone struggling with thoughts of self-harm to reach out, a reminder that even celebrated beauty spots carry quiet human weight.
North of the cove, the trail threads between high rocky bluffs along Ing Scar, which the writer compared to a fantasy film set, before arriving at Malham Tarn and Malham Tarn House. For anyone used to forested trails, this section is a relief — the first real trees after days of open moor and windswept hilltops.
The day's main climb was Fountains Fell, topping out around 2,125 feet — arguably the highest point of the Pennine Way so far, though earlier terrain on the route rivals it. Along the way there was trail gossip worth savouring: a fellow walker, nicknamed "Sir Starchy Trousers" for his reserved manner, suddenly appeared with a dramatically lighter pack. The mystery was solved over dinner at the Crown Inn in Horton, where he joined the group and revealed he'd bought lighter gear and hired a baggage-forwarding service to carry the rest, switching to inn-to-inn walking for the remainder of the route.
The final dilemma of the day was Pen-y-Ghent, one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. Day walkers on the trail kept asking whether the climb was on the agenda, and locals insisted the ascent was a simple 20-minute stroll. On tired legs, though, the walker opted for the gentler route straight down into Horton, checked in at Holme Farm Campsite, and called it the best day on trail so far thanks to kind weather and moderate terrain.
For travellers, this is a great snapshot of what makes the Pennine Way appealing: you can hike it in earnest or borrow the inn-and-luggage approach and walk it in comfort. Malham to Horton is also very doable as a standalone day walk, with the Three Peaks scenery, a national park village with pubs and campsites, and rail access via nearby Settle and Skipton. The original reporting comes from The Trek.
