Day 14 of a John Muir Trail thru-hike ended at Muir Trail Ranch (MTR), one of the most anticipated resupply points on the route — and, as this trail diary shows, a place with plenty of character. The hiker had just under ten miles to cover before the ranch's 2 p.m. check-in, nursing a sore wrist and bruised ribs from a fall the day before, but the promise of an actual bed kept the pace honest.
The walk in delivered classic Sierra scenery: a knee-deep wade across Evolution Creek (finally a use for those water shoes), waterfalls on the steep descent, and two handsome bridges at a river confluence that explained a confusing zigzag on the map. Along the way came trail magic of the human kind — a confident Russian forager insisting her freshly picked Sierra mushrooms were identical to the ones back home, a fast-moving hiker named Blair Witch attempting the entire JMT in five days while wearing a Hawaiian lei and barely any shoes, and the return of Sally, a fellow hiker the author kept leapfrogging.
Arrival at MTR was organised chaos. The porch was crowded with hikers rummaging through free boxes of discarded resupply items — one hiker's trash being another's treasure — while a teetering table of chargers, plugs and phones sat by the service window. Resupply buckets are stored in rows with a system that apparently collapses when too many arrive at once, so expect a bit of a hunt.
The cabin itself, booked by the author's wife for $375 a night, was charmingly basic: no climate control, no sink, no running water, but electricity and a plug for electronics. Facilities include open-air showers up the hill, a pit toilet, a bear-protected kitchen where all personal food must be stored overnight, all-day lemonade and ice in the dining hall, and hot springs for soaking (when not being scrubbed clean). Fancy cabins exist but carry a two-night minimum. Laundry means an old-fashioned wringer washer on an outdoor platform — and yes, you may need to improvise a drainage solution.
For anyone planning a John Muir Trail hike, MTR is worth understanding: it's a mid-route resupply hub deep in the Sierra Nevada where buckets mailed in advance are waiting, a rare chance for a roof and a shower, and a social crossroads where you'll meet speed hikers, families, and mushroom enthusiasts alike. Book cabins well ahead — as Sally discovered, they sell out. The route from Evolution Valley is a gentle, scenic approach at lower elevation, where the trees grow noticeably taller after days above tree-line. Just pack Ibuprofen, water shoes for creek crossings, and patience for the bucket search.
