Stage 4 of the Hexatrek — the long-distance thru-hike that loops around France — rolls through southern France's hill villages, and a recent trail diary from the route makes a strong case that this stretch is about far more than scenery.
The route threads centuries-old settlements built into hillsides, with houses tucked against natural boulders, ivy-covered walls and narrow cobbled passages. Bigger towns along the way, such as Viviers, have kept their 18th-century townhouses and brightly painted shutters intact. Some small communes go a step further for walkers: they set aside free tent spots right in the village centre, complete with bathrooms, water taps and shared picnic areas. One example sits in St Genies de Varensal, at kilometre 381 of Stage 4.
Then there's the food. The hikers behind the diary name Nant's 'L'enfariné du Roc' as the best bakery on the trail so far — its pain suisse nearly convinced them to stay an extra day. Between baguettes, tartlets, flans and croissants, artisan boulangeries double as a cool refuge from the punishing midday heat of the southern summer. The heat and insects are the genuine hardship here: horseflies in the south are described as relentlessly persistent, and once dusk falls, mosquitoes take over the shift.
The stage's most memorable moment had nothing to do with landscapes. A small black dog burst out of the bushes after lunch and refused to leave, shadowing the hikers up and down a mountain for roughly 10 kilometres. They had already named him 'Coffee' and were considering a trip to the town hall and a vet to trace an owner — when a car screeched to a halt and a man leapt out shouting 'Johnny!' Dog and owner reunited, the hikers walked on, slightly heartbroken but relieved.
Stage 4 finishes in Carcassonne — yes, the city that inspired the board game — where the 12th-century fortified walls are among the best-preserved in Europe. It's an ideal spot for a zero day before the route's next headline act: crossing the Pyrenees.
For anyone plotting a French walking holiday, this stage is a handy template: historic villages with free hiker camping, bakery towns worth a detour, and a big-hitter fortress city at the end. Just pack serious insect repellent and plan around the afternoon heat.
