Most airports are places you want to leave quickly. Sedona's is different. The Airport Mesa Scenic Overlook sits on a clifftop above the Arizona town, with one side looking over the red-rock peaks and juniper-dotted plains below, and the other out towards agave and ponderosa pine country. There's even a restaurant up there, Mesa Grill Sedona, where you can watch desert storms roll in over prickly pear lemonade.

Sedona has built a name for itself as a wellness destination — spas, resorts and, most famously, four so-called Energy Vortexes, spots where the Earth's energy is said to heighten meditation, prayer and relaxation. The vortex label dates to 1980s wellness culture, but the idea isn't entirely new-age: the Hopi people have long held this land sacred, and ceremony here goes back millennia. The four best-known sites are Airport Mesa, Cathedral Rock, Bell Rock and Boynton Canyon. You'll often find people meditating at them, so whatever your beliefs, keep it respectful.

Sceptics need not write the town off as pure mysticism. The geology here is genuinely remarkable — ancient, iron-rich sedimentary rock laid down between the Mississippian and Permian periods, up to 300 million years ago. One fun quirk: many of the local stones hold enough iron oxide to be properly magnetic, strong enough to nudge metal rods held in your hands. Guides with Arizona Safari Jeep Tours demonstrate the trick and lead visitors out onto the red rocks, stopping to point out cactus, sumac and desert ephedra — plants long used medicinally.

The most Instagrammed hike in town is Devil's Bridge, a natural red rock arch at the end of a multi-use trail shared with Jeeps. A word of caution from the source trip, taken in September: the heat topped 30°C and plenty of hikers were clearly underprepared, pale and short on water. Summer heat and monsoon-season flash floods make late summer risky — spring and fall are the sweet spots, with mild temperatures that let you spend full days on the town's hundreds of trails. For Canadians especially, Sedona works well as a shoulder-season hiking fix when trails back home are still snowy or muddy.

Beyond the trails, there's quirky charm too: Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village sells the turquoise jewellery that inspired the town's one-of-a-kind detail — the only McDonald's on Earth without Golden Arches, its signage turquoise instead by local decree.

Whether you come for the vortexes, the geology, or simply hikes through scenery unlike anything north of the 49th parallel, Sedona rewards a couple of days — ideally in April or October, with water in your pack and an open mind about what makes this place feel different.