Thanksgiving menus are sacred territory in most American households, but a recent round-up of chef interviews suggests the classics aren't as universally loved as family tradition would have you believe. Asked what they'd never put on their own holiday table, professional cooks from California to Hawaii had surprisingly strong opinions — and a few surprising defences.
Green bean casserole came in for the harshest criticism. Kyung Carroll of The Resort at Pelican Hill argues that canned soup and fried onions drown out perfectly good beans, and recommends blanching them, shocking them in ice water, then tossing with garlic, shallots and olive oil — with a few crispy onions sprinkled on if you need that familiar crunch. Several other chefs would simply swap in Brussels sprouts: Ewart Wardhaugh of the InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown roasts them at 425°F for 15-20 minutes with coconut oil, then finishes them with chilli flakes, lemon juice and parmesan. Jesse Mallgren of Jordan Winery in Healdsburg likes his roasted in chicken schmaltz with a splash of sherry vinegar.
Cranberry sauce split the room. Some, like barbecue chef Matt Horn, insist homemade relish is worth the effort. But Dominica Rice Cisneros of Oakland's Bombera admits she gave up: her guests preferred the canned stuff every time, so now that's all she serves. Katianna Hong of Yangban in Los Angeles splits the difference, doctoring store-bought sauce with cranberry jelly, frozen raspberries and crushed pineapple. San Diego's Christopher Osborne skips it entirely and makes an apple jam with nutmeg that works on stuffing, pie — even in a dark rum cocktail.
Sweet potato casserole topped with marshmallows drew the sharpest single critique. Dave Beran of Pasjoli in Santa Monica calls it "a waste of calories" and suggests a roasted beet and carrot salad with goat cheese and pistachios instead. If sweet potatoes stay on the menu, alternatives abounded: Suzanne Goin pairs them with bacon and romesco, Jeremy Shigekane of Prince Waikiki keeps the pecan-brown-sugar topping but drops the marshmallows, and David Varley whips roasted sweet potatoes with red miso, butter and maple syrup.
Other no-gos are about practicality rather than taste. Pre-packaged gravy can't compete with pan drippings — Four Seasons San Francisco's Kevin Tanaka even suggests making turkey stock from the carcass and freezing it for future gravy. Ryan Pollnow of Flour + Water flags out-of-season vegetables like asparagus as a mistake, recommending Brussels sprouts, delicata squash and hearty greens instead. Fish risks smelling up the house; mussels and clams turn rubbery as they cool, though king crab is forgiving. Soufflés are too finicky for a stressful day — Damon Gordon of FIG at the Fairmont Miramar swaps in a warm flourless chocolate cake with brandied caramel. Fruit cake got roasted too, with one chef calling it "traumatizing."
The takeaway for anyone cooking this November: even the pros argue about cranberry sauce, and marshmallow loyalty runs deep. But there's real value in their swaps — most are simpler, not harder, and built around what's actually in season at the market.
