There's a spot on the Continental Divide about 50 miles west of Denver where the lifts stopped turning more than two decades ago, yet the mountain is busier than ever. Berthoud Pass Ski Area closed for good after the 2001 season, and the old lodge was demolished in 2005. What's left behind has become one of Colorado's most popular backcountry destinations — around 2,000 acres of tree runs, powder bowls, steep couloirs and open chutes, all of it completely free and lift-free.

The terrain is surprisingly varied for a former small resort. Gentle, low-angle glades suit people newer to touring, while zones like No Name, Pumphouse Basin, Mount Russel and the so-called 80s and 90s area hold much bigger lines for experienced skiers. Because it's so vast, crowds thin out quickly and fresh snow can last longer than you'd expect so close to the Front Range.

One quirk worth knowing: hitchhiking is part of the culture here. Runs frequently end near the highway, and rather than skinning back up, plenty of skiers thumb a ride back to the summit — a shuttle tradition that dates to the resort's earliest days. On busy weekends, if the main summit parking lot is full (it fills by early morning), you can park at a highway turn-off and do exactly that.

The history is part of the appeal. Road crews began keeping the pass open in winter in the 1920s, informal shuttling of skiers to the top followed, and by the late 1930s the area had what many consider Colorado's first public rope tow. A three-storey lodge opened in 1949, and at its peak the resort ran a double chair and a T-bar over 80 skiable acres. It was also an early adopter of snowboarding, welcoming riders on its lifts back in the 1970s. Eventually, competition from nearby giants like Winter Park, money troubles and lift breakdowns did it in.

The catch — and it's a serious one — is that this is genuine backcountry. No patrollers, no grooming, no services, and real avalanche risk on the steep terrain. Anyone heading up should carry a beacon, probe and shovel, know how to use them, check the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecast before committing, and never ski alone. Timing matters too: some zones need a deep, stable mid-winter snowpack, while others come into their own as spring corn snow.

For Front Range locals, Berthoud is an easy dawn-patrol day trip; for visitors flying into Denver, it's one of the most accessible introductions to lift-servicing-free skiing in North America — provided you arrive with the training and gear to match. Travellers who'd rather admire than tour can still enjoy the pass as a scenic drive on US Route 40, en route to Winter Park or Steamboat Springs.