A 74-metre waterfall — claimed to be the fifth highest in the world — is reason enough to point the car south from Beirut. But Jezzine, a mountain town in Lebanon's South Governorate, packs in a lot more than one big splash: pine forests, Ottoman-era architecture, a family winery and a quirky cutlery-making tradition, all about an hour and a half from the capital.
Getting there is straightforward: take the highway towards Saida, turn inland at the Nejmeh roundabout, and follow the signs. Once you arrive, the town's landmarks make an easy walking circuit. The Municipal Palace, built in 1898 as the Jezzine Serail, is a striking classical Ottoman building with hefty columns holding up its arches — once the place where locals sorted out their legal business. Nearby, an antique wine press sits on the hill beneath the 150-year-old Church of Mar Takla, a nod to how deep winemaking roots run here.
For a small town, Jezzine has an unusual craft claim to fame: firebird cutlery. The old souks around Souk el Sedd are lined with shops selling it, and workshops like that of craftsman Boulos Bou Rached let you watch it being made. History buffs can also detour to Fakhreddine Cave, 500 metres from the waterfall, where Emir Fakhreddine hid before the Ottomans caught up with him — and where locals later sheltered during both World Wars.
The waterfall itself is the centrepiece. You can hike down to its base or stay up top with a coffee, and the surrounding pine forests are made for walking, whether with a guided operator or on your own. Wine lovers should book ahead at Karam Wines, the first winery to plant vines in the South and still the only one in the region, pouring reds, whites and rosés from its family-run vineyards.
Eating well is easy. Al Chalouf sits right above the falls with mezze and a view to match, Jannat Al Sanawbar does grills, and L'os Jezzine in nearby Bkassine trades waterfall views for mountain ones.
Where to sleep depends on your style. Maison de la Forest is an eco-lodge buried in the pines, with a climbing wall, ropes course and bike hire — great for active families. Blue Jay Valley offers bungalows and luxury tents under dark skies, while Iris Flower Hotel is a comfortable three-star option. L'étoile du Loup has 15 chalets around a pool on the hilltop, and the newer Meouchy guesthouse is an authentic Lebanese house serving a traditional breakfast.
Jezzine suits travellers who want nature and quiet without straying far from Beirut — hikers, food-and-wine types, and families needing a weekend reset. Spring and early summer, when the falls are at full flow and the forests are green, is the window to aim for.
