Kabul traffic took an hour and a half to escape on the way out of the city — about 30km in mostly first gear. That was the start of a September 2026 motorbike trip through seven Afghan provinces, documented by a woman traveller who has spent much of the past two years in the country. Her route: Kabul to Panjshir, then across to Bamiyan and back.
Panjshir Valley, famous as the stronghold where Ahmad Shah Massoud's fighters repeatedly repelled Soviet offensives in the 1980s, remains heavily militarised. The first checkpoint took 25 minutes of registration before the riders were waved through. Reactions at subsequent posts varied wildly — some officers offered chai and warm words, others were confused or curt. One officer initially objected to a woman riding, only backing down after an extended exchange. Crucially, there's no actual ban on women riding motorbikes in Afghanistan, so the group wasn't breaking any rules — just social expectations. Most locals were simply stunned; many men cheered them on.
The riding itself was a study in contrasts. Once out of Kabul, the roads into Parwan, Kapisa and Panjshir pass through some of the country's most scenic valleys. The route to Bamiyan on new paved roads crosses high mountain passes with hairpin turns, potholes and heavy truck traffic. Bamiyan itself is a small, low-traffic city where the riders cruised the markets and lunched with a view. Practical surprises helped too: even villages of a few hundred people had a bike mechanic when a mechanical problem arose.
Insurance was the trickiest logistics hurdle. Cover for Afghanistan alone is hard to source, and motorbike coverage rarer still — the writer eventually found a policy covering foreigners on bikes up to 125cc.
Why does this matter for travellers? Afghanistan's tourism numbers are quietly rising, and overland and motorcycle travel is emerging as a niche within it. This trip shows it's possible for women, with a local male companion and permits arranged in advance — but expect checkpoints everywhere, chaotic city traffic where drivers use both sides of the road, and plenty of negotiation with curious officials. It's an expedition, not a casual ride, suited to experienced riders comfortable with unpredictability. Young Pioneer Tours also runs an organised Afghanistan motorbike tour for those who'd rather not go it alone.
Full trip details via Young Pioneer Tours.
