A long-distance hiker walking New Zealand's Te Araroa trail took a rest day in the Bay of Islands and ended up crewing on a tall ship — dolphins, rigging climbs and a swim included. It's a good reminder that even the most trail-bound itineraries benefit from saying yes to the unexpected.
The walker had volunteered on the R. Tucker Thompson, a tall ship berthed in Opua, the previous winter. When the crew heard they'd be passing through, an invitation to join a day sail out of Russell arrived almost instantly. The trip runs from Russell, a short passenger ferry ride from Paihia, and typically involves motoring out to an island, going ashore to walk, swim and eat, then sailing back under full canvas.
The day delivered. Volunteers were roped in to help set the sails, and harnessed guests could climb partway up the rigging while under way — breezy, but manageable if you don't fancy going all the way to the top. Dolphins then appeared alongside the ship, leaping barely a metre from the hull, close enough that passengers put their phones away rather than risk dropping them overboard.
The anchorage at Motuarohia Island is the classic Bay of Islands postcard: a short lookout track, clear water and swimmers in the bay. Back on board, lunch is a sausage barbecue with vegetarian falafels prepared on request — though the crew will happily cater for last-minute vegetarians too, as one German passenger discovered. Some guests swing off a rope from the rigging into the water; a ladder is available for the less theatrical. The return leg sets all sails, and a ferry back to Paihia meets the ship soon after it docks.
For Te Araroa hikers, Paihia and Opua are a natural resupply and rest stop. The Paihia Top 10 holiday park offers a special rate for TA walkers, with waterside tent spots. One practical quirk nearby: a stretch of trail is tidal, so check tide times or you'll be detoured onto the road, as this walker was.
Why it matters: the Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand's prettiest pockets of water, and sailing on a traditional tall ship is a genuinely different way to see it — you're not just a passenger, you're pulling ropes. It suits active travellers who like their sightseeing hands-on, and anyone combining Northland with a longer walking trip. Pack a towel if you want that swim, and book ahead if you have dietary requirements.
