"Surf City" isn't a single town. It's El Salvador's national project to turn its entire Pacific coast into a proper tourism destination — and it's split into two zones that suit completely different travellers.

Surf City One covers the La Libertad coastline, west of the capital. This is the established strip: El Tunco, El Sunzal, El Zonte and Punta Roca, all within easy reach of San Salvador and the international airport. El Tunco is the social hub — a compact backpacker town with surf schools, bars and restaurants clustered around a distinctive offshore rock. El Sunzal offers a long right-hand point break with oceanfront accommodation behind it. El Zonte is smaller and sleepier (it also made headlines as "Bitcoin Beach"). Punta Roca, near the port of La Libertad, is the serious one: a fast, powerful right-hander that hosts international competitions and is strictly for experienced surfers. Not everything here is expert-level, though — El Majahual is the family pick for seafood and weekend beach days, and El Palmarcito is a quieter option with scenic breaks.

Surf City Two stretches along the eastern coast in Usulután and San Miguel, and this is where the crowds thin out. El Cuco is the anchor — a wide sandy beach packed with Salvadoran families on weekends and fringed by seafood restaurants — and it works well as a base for exploring further. Surfers head to Las Flores for its long right-hand waves or Punta Mango for powerful, remote breaks. There are also barely-documented beaches like El Carrizal, La Periquera and El Abrojal, all about secluded coastline and quiet rather than infrastructure. Expect fishing villages, longer drives from the capital and a far slower rhythm than La Libertad.

The good news is you don't need a board to enjoy any of it. Coastal food is a genuine draw — fried fish, shrimp, ceviche and seafood soups served everywhere from beach shacks to restaurants around Puerto de La Libertad. Sunsets over the Pacific are a nightly event, best watched from a beachfront table or a stretch of open sand. One caution: conditions vary a lot between beaches, so check swimming safety locally, especially around rocky areas and strong currents.

Who should go? If you want nightlife, surf schools and everything walkable, base yourself in El Tunco. If you've got the waves sorted and want empty coastline, make for the east. Many travellers combine both — a few lively nights in La Libertad followed by a quiet few days around El Cuco is a classic route, and the whole coast is compact enough to do it in a week or even a long weekend.