Venice Beach has moved well beyond its boardwalk stereotypes. The skaters, murals and street performers are all still there, but the neighbourhood is now just as known for serious restaurants, design boutiques and slow lunches under the palms on Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Two days is enough to cover it properly — here's how the weekend shapes up.

Start with the setting. The Venice Canals were dug in 1905 by developer Abbot Kinney as an American take on the Italian original, and they remain the prettiest walk in LA — best at golden hour, when the footbridges and canal-side gardens catch the last light. Back on the coast, Ocean Front Walk still delivers the full circus: Muscle Beach, artists, buskers and the Venice Skate Park, where some of the world's best skaters turn up in the late afternoon. Give it an hour, then head inland. For a bigger hit of coastline, rent a bike and ride the Marvin Braude Bike Trail north to Santa Monica Pier or south to Marina del Rey.

Abbot Kinney Boulevard is where you'll actually spend the weekend. Once dubbed the coolest block in America, the palm-lined mile packs independent shops and some of LA's most talked-about tables. On the first Friday of each month, food trucks roll in and stores stay open late. Don't skip the side streets off Windward Avenue either — Venice works as an open-air gallery, best explored with a coffee from Intelligentsia before 9am, ahead of the queue.

The dining lineup is the real draw now. Gjelina is the restaurant that put the boulevard on the map — go for the wood-fired pizzas and vegetable plates — while its sister Gjusta is a cult bakery-deli with standout pastries. Felix, Evan Funke's pasta house with a glass-walled pasta lab, needs booking well in advance, as does RVR, a buzzy izakaya from Gjelina's founding chef Travis Lett serving clam ramen and pork belly gyoza. The Tasting Kitchen is back after a 2023 fire, with moody banquettes and Italian-leaning plates until late. Other tables worth chasing: Baja seafood at San Damian, Panamanian cooking at Si! Mon for date night, whole fried fish and natural wine at Dudley Market, and a rotating queue-worthy scoop at Salt & Straw.

On sleeping: Hotel Erwin is the in-the-thick-of-it pick, with the freshly refreshed High rooftop upstairs — the best sunset drink in Venice, and worth reserving on Resy for weekends. The Venice V Hotel occupies a 1915 landmark beneath the Venice sign, and the nine-room Venice Beach House is a quiet 1911 inn near the canals. If you want actual five-star polish, base yourself at Shutters on the Beach, Hotel Casa del Mar or the new Regent in Santa Monica, ten minutes north.

Shopping runs from Burro's Californian ceramics and candles to the carefully edited designer racks at Heist, Scandinavian homewares at Huset, cult cookware at Our Place and Buck Mason's American basics. Practicalities: Venice is best explored on foot or by bike, weekend parking on Abbot Kinney is tight, September and October bring the warmest clearest beach days (early summer can greet you with grey "June Gloom" mornings), and the hot tables and rooftop fill up fast — book ahead.