Most travellers blow through Fishguard without a second glance — it's the port for the ferry to Ireland. Linger, though, and this small town on Pembrokeshire's northern coast turns out to be one of the most rewarding stops in Wales. Vikings reputedly founded it as a fishing settlement over a thousand years ago, and the sea still runs through everything: kelp meadows in the bay, lobster pots stacked on the quay, and seafood on every menu.

The town splits in two. Lower Town is the postcard: a sleepy harbour ringed by ice-cream-coloured cottages, some centuries old, with a short stretch of coast path leading out to Fishguard Fort, an old cannon battery. Fifteen minutes uphill sits the modern main town, clustered around the Town Hall, where you can see a Welsh take on the Bayeux tapestry. It tells the story of Jemima Nicholas, a local shoemaker who helped see off a French invasion in 1797 — an event commemorated by a plaque at the Royal Oak pub across the square, which also serves staples like Welsh beef lasagna and fish pie.

Eating well here is easy. Hooked @31 is the local chippie, pairing fish-and-chip combos with ice cream made from Welsh dairy. For something more polished, Ffwrn is a stylish bistro serving dishes such as tiger prawns with parsley butter and calamari in spicy garlic aioli.

The real draw is what surrounds the town. Fishguard sits inside Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, the UK's only coast-focused national park, whose 186-mile coastal path threads right through town. To the west, the trail climbs to Strumble Head, a wild, wind-scoured promontory with clifftop lookouts over seal-haunted inlets and a century-old lighthouse on its own rocky islet, ranked among the loveliest in Wales. Heading east, the path crosses heath and farm fields above jagged rock formations, ending after a few hours at Pwllgwaelod Beach — where a pub waits right on the sand.

Getting there is simpler than it looks. Fishguard is about two and a half hours' drive from Cardiff, which has the nearest major international airport, but direct trains from Swansea take just over 90 minutes and stop at the ferry harbour below town. For anyone who loves cliff walks, honest pub food and history with a bit of drama attached, Fishguard is an easy yes — and far quieter than Pembrokeshire's better-known southern spots like Tenby.

Story via Islands.