Britain's story is usually told through cathedrals and castles, but there's another heritage thread running through these islands — and it goes back further than most people think. Moroccan ambassadors turned up at Elizabeth I's court, Yemeni sailors settled in Cardiff's docklands in the 1800s, and at its peak the British Empire governed more Muslims than any other power. Today more than four million Muslims live in Britain, and the places tied to that history make for a genuinely different kind of heritage trip.

Start in Woking, Surrey, where the Shah Jahan Mosque has been standing since 1889 — the first purpose-built mosque in Britain and northwestern Europe, and the country's only Grade I-listed one. With its green onion dome ringed in gold stars and faux minarets topped by little domes, it was dreamt up by scholar Gottlieb Wilhelm Leitner and may be modelled on Lahore's Badshahi Mosque. It's open to visitors, and the neighbouring Sir Salar Jung building holds historic archives you can view by appointment.

Liverpool claims Britain's very first mosque. Lawyer William Henry Quilliam converted to Islam after a trip to Morocco and founded the Liverpool Muslim Institute in 1887, moving to 8 Brougham Terrace two years later. There he ran an orphanage, a madrasa and a press that published Britain's first Muslim newspaper, The Crescent — and he eventually styled himself Sheikh-ul-Islam of Britain. The modern mosque occupies the terrace today, with the original buildings being restored to their late-Victorian look.

Cardiff's Butetown, once the famous Tiger Bay docklands, has hosted a Muslim community since the 19th century, drawing seafarers from Yemen, Somalia and South Asia. A prayer hall existed by 1936, one of Britain's earliest purpose-built mosques followed in 1947, and the area still hums with Somali cafés, halal butchers and community projects like Docks magazine. Catch a Tiger Bay FC match if you can — the club was founded by local Somalis in 2009.

For something contemporary, Cambridge Central Mosque opened in 2019 after 11 years and £23 million in the making. Britain's first eco-mosque, held up by a forest of splayed wooden columns, recycles rainwater for its Islamic-style gardens and won the RIBA Stirling Prize People's Vote in 2021. Patroned by Yusuf Islam — the artist once known as Cat Stevens — it sits a short walk from the train station.

Outside England, Dublin's Chester Beatty museum within Dublin Castle holds one of Europe's finest collections of Qur'anic manuscripts: some 6,000 Islamic items, including 260 Qur'ans from the 8th to 19th centuries, with an 11th-century copy by master calligrapher Ibn al-Bawwab as its star.

Whether you're into architecture, manuscripts or social history, these five stops show a Muslim Britain that's older, richer and far more woven-in than most guidebooks suggest.