Day 28 of a Camino de Santiago pilgrimage covers just under 12 miles from the mountain hamlet of Fonfria down to Samos in Galicia, northwest Spain — and it packs in some of the route's most atmospheric walking. The writer, at 405 total miles by the end of the day, describes a stage that shows why the final week of the Camino Frances rewards slowing down.
The morning starts with farm-fresh bacon and eggs at a family guesthouse in Fonfria, then a long descent out of the Galician mountains on a clear, cool morning. From a ridge, hundreds of pilgrims are visible on the path far below. The trail passes through Fillobal and then along 'sunken roads' — centuries-old paths eroded 20 feet deep into hillsides — flanked by ferns, moss-covered trunks and deep shade that the writer compares to the famous 'green tunnel' sections of America's Appalachian Trail.
One of the piece's best takeaways is its tongue-in-cheek 'cow poop theory': small working farm villages serve better food with friendlier service than polished tourist stops like Molinaseca, and cow dung on the cobbles is the tell-tale sign you've found an authentic one. The farming village of Pasantes, sadly, has no cafes — so carry coffee supplies on this stretch.
At Triacastela, traditionally considered the end of the Galician high country, the Camino splits. Most pilgrims take the direct route to Sarria, but the writer chooses the quieter Samos alternative, which winds along a river past waterfalls — up to 50 feet tall, with cooling mist rising off canyon walls — and through San Cristo do Real, a near-abandoned medieval village with a creek running through its winding lanes. Lined with chestnut trees and mossy stone walls, it's a gentler, more solitary approach to Santiago.
The payoff is Samos itself: a massive monastery dating to the 9th century, recently restored after abandonment and a fire. Tours are led by a black-robed monk who speaks no English, though fellow pilgrims often help translate. The complex includes two large cloisters and a cathedral with elaborate altarpieces, and there's evening mass at 7:30 PM for those with energy left. As for the 'hiker trash' wine? An older local left three-quarters of a bottle at an outdoor table — a free pairing for the day's efforts.
This stage matters for anyone planning the last 100-plus kilometres of the Camino Frances, especially those starting in Sarria who want to dodge crowds. Opting for the Samos variant adds a peaceful, monastery-topped detour that most pilgrims skip.
