Most travellers ticking off Canada's islands head for Prince Edward Island or Vancouver Island. Few think to look at Grand Manan, a small chunk of land in the Bay of Fundy off New Brunswick that fewer than 55 square miles call home — along with roughly 2,500 year-round residents. And that's exactly its appeal: the beaches are uncrowded, the trails quiet, and the whale watching genuinely world-class.
The Bay of Fundy is famous for its record-breaking tides and nutrient-rich water, which draw humpbacks, minke and fin whales close to shore. You can join a whale-watching tour, but visitors regularly spot them from the ferry, from a kayak, or simply from the coast. On land, the island records around 240 bird species, Atlantic puffins among them, making it a serious draw for birders.
Grand Manan's signature sight is Swallowtail Lighthouse, an 18th-century landmark perched above the bay. A short walk from the parking lot gets you to its base, and for a dollar or two you can climb the 54 steps to the top, passing museum exhibits on the way. If you'd rather see it from the water, launch a kayak from Seal Cove and paddle beneath the cliffs and rock formations — though a guided trip is the smart choice unless you're an experienced paddler.
Beach pickers are well served too. Seal Cove has shallow water and fine sand, ideal for families, and it's a known spot for hunting sea glass. Deep Cove Beach, about 24 minutes south of the ferry terminal at North Head, is often called the island's best, with pristine sands and hardly anyone on them. Hikers will find trails for every level along the cliffs, and the small villages — Grand Harbour with its museum and bird gallery, and the historic fishing village of Seal Cove — offer local seafood restaurants and artisan shops.
Getting there takes a little planning, which is why the island stays quiet. Ferries run from Blacks Harbour, about 45 minutes southeast of Saint John, New Brunswick (not to be mixed up with St. John's in Newfoundland). The crossing takes 90 minutes and costs roughly $9-10 for walk-on passengers or $28 for a vehicle, with four sailings daily and extras in summer. Reserve ahead, especially with a car. Once on the island, a vehicle is close to essential — the fuel stations are few, so fill up before you explore the coastal highway.
Summer is the sweet spot for warm weather, whale watching and birding, while spring and autumn bring milder crowds at the cost of some closed amenities. Whenever you visit, pack a layer for fog — it's something of an island signature. For travellers who like their nature uncrowded and their lighthouses working, Grand Manan is one of Canada's most rewarding detours.
Original reporting: Explore.com
