Glowing water at night, howler monkeys at dawn and sunsets that stop conversation — all a three-hour trip from San José. Isla Chiquita Glamping Hotel sits on tiny Isla Jesusita in the Gulf of Nicoya, near Paquera on Costa Rica's Nicoya Peninsula, and it delivers a version of the country most beach-bound visitors never see.

The setup is simple: air-conditioned canvas tents, a small property that never feels busy, and a beach that's quiet rather than postcard-white. The writer behind this first-hand review arrived expecting tropical sunshine and got misty, cool hills instead — weather that swung to full sun within hours. Pack layers: evenings on the water after rain get surprisingly chilly, and the forest trail turns to mud and exposed roots after wet weather, so proper walking shoes beat water shoes.

What makes the stay memorable is less the lodging than the pace. At low tide, the sand fills with intricate flower-like patterns drawn by feeding crabs. Guests fall asleep to distant howler monkeys and wander down to breakfast without an agenda. For solo travellers, the property hits a sweet spot — enough privacy to read alone, with group excursions that make meeting people easy.

Two excursions stood out. A sunset cruise threads between bird-filled islands, frigatebirds circling overhead and red crabs clinging to rocks, before the sky cycles through orange, pink and lavender. Later, a bioluminescence trip lets you drag nets through dark water to trigger flashes of light from tiny organisms — with a star-filled sky above as a bonus.

The cost is reasonable for the experience: a two-night tent stay with breakfast ran $460, and the writer's share of both excursions brought the total to just over $556 (November 2026 prices, so verify before booking). Getting there from the Guanacaste side means driving to Punta Cuchillos on the mainland, where the hotel's boat makes the short crossing — a small break that makes the island feel properly remote.

The Gulf of Nicoya gets far less attention than Manuel Antonio or Tamarindo, and that's the draw. Think forested islands, fishing villages and empty coastline rather than resort strips. This one's for travellers who want solitude, wildlife and dark skies without sacrificing comfort — glamping, after all, still means a proper bed and breakfast included.