Tucked between Birmingham and the brewing town of Burton upon Trent, Lichfield is easy to drive past and a shame to miss. With a population under 35,000, this Staffordshire city manages to pack in a Gothic cathedral, a serious food scene, and a full calendar of festivals — all within a compact, walkable centre.

Its anchor is Lichfield Cathedral, one of the oldest places of Christian worship in England, and the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum, honouring the city's most famous son. But Lichfield isn't stuck in the past. Lichfield Proms brings an outdoor concert to town on the first weekend of September, and the Lichfield Festival each July stages more than 60 events across the city over nearly two weeks. Year-round, the Lichfield Garrick Theatre hosts local productions, touring plays, workshops and open mic nights.

The shopping is more charming than corporate. The heart of it is a trio of old streets — Bore, Dam and Conduit — where timber-framed buildings now house independents. Vintique Lichfield, in the Corn Exchange on Conduit Street, deals in re-loved designer fashion that reviewers praise for statement pieces at fair prices. Around the corner on Dam Street, Fortescues is a family-run boutique stocking handpicked clothing from overseas. For everyday needs, the open-air Three Spires Shopping Centre near Bore Street covers the basics, plus a few surprises like The Edinburgh Woollen Mill.

Food is where Lichfield really over-delivers. This small city has two Michelin-starred restaurants: Upstairs by Tom Shepherd, set in the building that once housed the chef's father's jewellery shop, serving dishes like pan-seared Orkney scallop and a Thai green curry riff called "Transition"; and The Boat. If fine dining isn't the mood, The Whittington Arms does proper Sunday roasts and fish and chips, while Patty Freaks flips creative burgers including a cinnamon roll burger. Add cask ale at Brewhouse & Kitchen, plus food festivals in May and August, and you've got more eating than a weekend allows.

Getting there is simple: Lichfield sits about 20 miles from Birmingham. Fly into Birmingham Airport (BHX), take the free Air-Rail Link monorail to Birmingham International station, then hop on a train with one change. July brings the best weather and the festival; September suits concert-goers. Stoke-on-Trent, with its own food scene, is an hour north if you want to extend the trip.

Lichfield suits travellers who like their English breaks small-scale but substantive — heritage, theatre, indie shopping and good food without big-city hassle. It works as a day trip from Birmingham or a quiet base for a slower Midlands weekend.