If you're heading to Lisbon soon, don't be surprised to find Praça D. Pedro IV — better known as the Rossio, the grand tiled square at the heart of the Baixa — dotted with tents. Around a hundred were still pitched there this week, part of a 'right to housing' encampment that began on a Saturday and quickly became national news. A parallel camp has appeared in Porto, and police sources suggest the sites may not be allowed to stay indefinitely, with reports of a possible move to clear them.

The protest is aimed at a new rental law that organisers say makes access to housing more precarious. Their stated goal is to block or repeal it entirely. Spokesperson João Veloso, a 30-year-old camera operator, said 300 to 400 people spent the night in the square, with participants rotating duties during the day since holding the camp together is harder on weekdays.

Who's camping? A broad mix — students, workers, the unemployed, people of all ages, some in collectives, many not. Veloso himself lives with relatives because his salary doesn't stretch to renting. Another camper, 42-year-old Diogo, says most of his friends have already left Lisbon and many in his generation still flat-share 'as if they were students', a situation he links to the country's falling birth rate. A third, Leonor, 30, framed the issue more broadly: housing in Portugal, she argues, is treated as a commodity rather than a fundamental right.

The camp is well organised for visitors passing through. Around the statue of D. Pedro IV — its plaque altered to read that Article 65 of the Constitution, which enshrines the right to housing, 'has died' — you'll find a support tent with working groups, plus first aid, information, water and food points. Placards with protest messages cover the monument. During reporting there was no police presence visible in the square.

Why should a traveller care? The Rossio is one of Lisbon's signature sights — home to the Rossio train station, cafés and the usual buzz of the downtown. The encampment doesn't close anything, but it changes the feel of the square and may do for days or weeks yet. It's also a rare, very visible window into a live political issue: Portugal's housing costs have soared as tourism and foreign demand push rents beyond what many locals earn, and this camp is the most prominent street expression of that frustration. If your itinerary includes the Baixa, expect crowds, placards and evening assemblies around 7pm, when campers decide their next moves. Treat it as you would any protest: observe respectfully, don't photograph individuals without asking, and check local news in case police clear the site during your stay.