Most Southern road trip itineraries loop through New Orleans, Nashville and Charleston. Mobile, Alabama rarely makes the list — which is exactly why it's worth a detour. This Gulf Coast port city has nearly 325 years of history, a carnival tradition older than New Orleans itself, and a wetland ecosystem so rich it's been nicknamed "America's Amazon".

That nickname is no exaggeration. North of downtown, five rivers converge before emptying into Mobile Bay, creating a maze of cypress swamps and waterways that shelter alligators, otters, turtles and hundreds of bird species. The fastest way in is an Airboat Express tour with a guide scouting wildlife; the slower way is by kayak, which suits the setting just as well. Birders should add Dauphin Island's Audubon Bird Sanctuary — one of the top birding sites in the US, especially during migration when thousands of birds pass through.

Back in town, Mobile is compact and walkable, with a museum line-up that punches above its size. The Mobile Museum of Art holds a permanent collection spanning American, European, African and Asian works, from 19th-century landscapes to contemporary glass and ceramics. History buffs have two strong options downtown: the Condé-Charlotte Museum, a historic house stuffed with antiques and period furnishings, and the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion, an imposing whitewashed home built in 1855 for Judge John Bragg.

The big claim to fame, though, is Mardi Gras. Mobile hosted North America's first carnival celebrations in 1703 — before New Orleans existed as we know it — and its season runs longer than a single Fat Tuesday. Twelfth Night on 5 January kicks off a month of parades, mystic society events and festivities through to Mardi Gras day. The Mobile Carnival Museum is the place to see the ornate gowns, robes and crowns up close, and February 9 marks the climax of the season.

Evenings belong to Dauphin Street, a strip of historic buildings filled with live music bars and restaurants. Brickyard, Callaghan's Irish Social Club and Las Floriditas are local fixtures, while the Merry Widow draws touring acts and comedy nights and Cedar Street Social hosts intimate gigs served with craft cocktails. The venue density means you can bar-hop on foot all night.

Food follows the Gulf-to-table logic you'd expect. Dauphin's serves fine dining with city views and seriously good fried green tomatoes; Debris Po-Boys & Drinks is the casual counterpoint with legendary po-boys; and the Original Oyster House on the waterfront does char-grilled oysters over an open flame, award-winning seafood gumbo and a peanut butter chocolate chip pie with a reputation of its own. For beds, the Fort Condé Inn offers chandeliers, roll-top baths and flower-filled gardens, while The Admiral sits right in the historic district.

Who is this for? Travellers who like their cities under-the-radar: birders, foodies, live music fans and anyone road-tripping the Gulf Coast who wants authentic Southern hospitality without the crowds of its better-known neighbours. Mobile rewards a two- or three-day stop, and it won't stay quiet for long.