Boarding for the Eastern & Oriental Express doesn't happen in downtown Singapore. You're driven about 25 minutes from the city to Woodlands Train Checkpoint on the Malaysia border, where immigration is handled before you even step on the platform — where the train's team greets you. It's one small example of how Belmond manages the whole experience: a concierge calls roughly a month ahead to lock in your excursions and any Dior Spa slots, since the spa only has two treatment rooms and fills up fast.
There are three cabin tiers: the Pullman (smallest, bunk beds, ensuite shower), the State Cabin (two convertible single beds that become sofas by day — the sweet spot for most travellers) and the Presidential Suite. Cabins are snug, so the crew stores large luggage in a secure carriage and you keep a small hand-luggage-style bag in your room. Beds are remade nightly by your butler while you're at breakfast.
Wherever you sleep, the whole train is open to every guest. The Observation Car at the rear has a cocktail bar and outdoor deck — the quietest spot for evening drinks and views. Meals rotate between the two restaurant cars, Malaya and Adisorn, with shared tables for four (or two-seaters if you'd rather keep to yourselves), which turns the passenger list into one big group by the end of the trip. The Piano Car runs all day on cocktails, champagne and afternoon tea, then hosts live musicians deep into the night. There's also a shop selling tiffin boxes, champagne flutes and crockery — buy early, stock runs out before the journey ends.
The writers took the 'Essence of Malaysia' route from Singapore, stopping at Langkawi, Penang and the historic town of Ipoh. Every excursion is included in the fare — tours, beach days, cooking classes — and the concierge pre-books your choices. As for sleeping: light sleepers might notice the motion, but most guests find the cabins quiet; the real exhaustion comes from staying up for every last piano bar set.
This is unapologetically a premium, once-in-a-while trip — you're paying for the seamless service as much as the scenery. Dates sell out and prices swing with the season, so book far ahead. If the style appeals but Malaysia doesn't, Belmond runs sibling trains across Europe, Britain, Scotland and Peru, from day trips to multi-night journeys.
Credit: Hand Luggage Only