Kayangel, Palau's northernmost state, has always been hard to reach. The tiny atoll sits across open water from the main archipelago, and landings depend on favourable sea conditions. Now there's a new way in: the Four Seasons Explorer, a 39-metre catamaran that works as a floating hotel and has added a Kayangel itinerary to its routes.

The island itself is almost absurdly small. The atoll is made up of four islets — Kayangel, Ngeriungs, Ngerbelas and Orak — and only one of them is inhabited, with a population Four Seasons puts at 55 people. There's white sand, coconut palms, clear water and very little else. The surrounding waters are protected too: the Kayangel Protected Areas Network covers the immediate area, while the nearby Ngeruangel Marine Reserve has been off-limits to exploitation since 1996.

Crucially, no resort gets built on the island. The Explorer stays offshore and carries up to 22 guests in 10 staterooms plus an Explorer Suite, with a restaurant, lounge, library, sun decks and a dedicated dive deck. Snorkelling, kayaking and paddleboarding kit is all on board, as is a PADI 5-Star Dive Centre. On the Kayangel day, guests are ferried ashore for beach time and a lunch served beside the lagoon — no beach clubs, no villas. Access is weather dependent, and the deliberately low-key setup keeps the focus on the island rather than on facilities.

The bigger draw is what surrounds Kayangel. Palau is made up of hundreds of islands, and its marine environment is among the best in the Pacific. To the south, the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site spanning 100,200 hectares across 445 uninhabited limestone islands. Its waters hold hundreds of coral and fish species, plus sharks, manta rays, dugongs and giant clams. Explorer itineraries string together diving and snorkelling with island stops and cultural visits, so the hotel effectively moves with you through places that would otherwise need separate trips.

For a certain kind of traveller, this solves a real problem: Palau's remote spots have long required time, planning and luck to reach, and few visitors ever make it north to Kayangel. A small-capacity vessel keeps the footprint light while making the journey itself part of the holiday. If you want your tropical escape to involve open water, quiet beaches and serious time underwater rather than a pool bar, this is a route worth looking at. Just don't go expecting spectacle — Kayangel's appeal is precisely that it hasn't changed to accommodate visitors. Full details are in Getaway South Africa.