Smallwood Reservoir: Canada's Biggest Man-Made Lake and Its Curious 'Dry Waterfall'

Hidden deep in Labrador, Newfoundland and Labrador's least crowded corner, sits Smallwood Reservoir — Canada's largest artificial lake, covering roughly 6,475 square kilometres (about 2,500 square miles). It was created in the 1960s when a landscape of hundreds of rivers and lakes, including the Lobstick, Michikamau and Ossokmanuan basins and land long home to the Innu people, was flooded to generate hydroelectric power. That history is visible in its strangest sight: the Churchill Falls 'dry waterfall'. Before the damming, the Churchill River thundered over the rocks; now the falls run as a trickle, reviving only after heavy rain or snowmelt.

This is wilderness travel in the truest sense. There are no spas, lodges or glamping tents here — the appeal is solitude, raw scenery and self-reliant outdoor time. Anglers are the main draw: the waters hold salmon, lake trout, whitefish and northern pike. Non-residents need an angling licence and, by local rules, must go with a licensed guide or outfitter — sensible anyway, given how vast and trackless the surrounding country is.

Hikers have options around nearby Churchill Falls too. The Bowdoin Canyon Nature Trail is the most popular: just under 2 miles with 88 feet of elevation gain, an hour-long moderate walk with views over the Churchill River, the canyon and the falls. Rabbit Run Trail is easier and works for kids and dogs, though reviewers recommend sturdy boots for rocky stream crossings. The Loop du Loup runs about 4 miles and can flood after summer rain, but it's groomed in winter for cross-country skiing.

Getting there takes commitment. The nearest major airport is Wabush, about two and a half hours west of Churchill Falls, where the Wabush Hotel offers rooms around C$175 a night. You can also fly into Goose Bay (Air Canada or PAL Airlines), three hours east of Churchill Falls, with small hotels like Hotel North from around C$200 per night — or take a connecting flight straight into tiny Churchill Falls Airport. Either way, rent a 4WD or all-wheel-drive vehicle: the route uses the Trans-Labrador Highway, including gravel sections. Note there are no official campsites on the Churchill Falls side of the reservoir, so plan accommodation accordingly.

Smallwood is for travellers who measure a trip by how far off the map it feels — anglers, long-distance road-trippers, and anyone chasing Labrador's empty, glacier-carved interior rather than its famous coastline.