The English Riviera gets the crowds, but just around the estuary where the River Teign meets the English Channel sits Teignmouth, a relaxed port town with roots going back to the 11th century. It has two very different beaches, a Victorian pier, a compact shopping quarter and some genuinely old-school seafood pubs — and it's an easy add-on to any Devon itinerary.

The town's set-up makes it simple to explore on foot. A stone lighthouse guards the harbour entrance, and the Victorian Grand Pier juts out into the sea. At the centre, Triangle Square is marked by a decorative stone fountain and surrounded by independent shops. ROAM, a pastel-fronted gift shop, sells candles, towels, cards and children's books — and pours coffee for flagging browsers. Next door, the Teignmouth Rock & Fudge Shop covers sweets and beach gear, from handmade fudge to boogie boards and inflatable loungers. The Laura Wall Gallery adds a splash of colour with watercolour prints and notebooks.

History fans should detour to the Teign Heritage Centre, a short walk from the square. It's small but dense: exhibits on the town's maritime past include shipwreck fragments and an Edwardian bathing costume.

The beaches split neatly in two. Town Beach, beside the Grand Pier, is a sand-and-pebble mix backed by white townhouses and wooded cliffs, with a paved promenade if you'd rather not sit on sand. On the far side of town, Back Beach overlooks the River Teign estuary — quieter, with fishing boats, picnic tables and views across the water to the hills.

Then there's the seafood. Ye Olde Jolly Sailor claims to be the town's oldest pub, with records of an alehouse on the site from the 12th century. Expect stone walls, exposed beams and a menu running from garlic butter prawns to fish pie and seafood pizza. The Jolly Good Fish Cafe is the alternative for fish and chips cooked to order. If Teignmouth leaves you hungry for more coast, Brixham and its famous fish market sit just along the Riviera.

Getting there is straightforward. Torquay is around 25 minutes away by car or train, Exmouth about 40 minutes by road or just over an hour by rail. From London, it's under three hours by train from Paddington or roughly four by car. Places to stay range from B&Bs to holiday rentals.

Teignmouth suits travellers who want a proper English seaside day — pier, chips, fudge and all — without the resort crowds, or a calmer base while exploring south Devon.