Shoreditch is best known these days for street art, coffee and club nights — but one of its most interesting sights is a quiet patch of Victorian history hiding in plain sight. The Boundary Estate, just off Old Street and Shoreditch High Street, is widely regarded as the first council housing estate ever built in London, and its origins are darker than its leafy courtyards suggest.
Before the estate existed, this part of east London was the Old Nichol, one of the capital's most notorious slums. In the late 1800s, around 5,000 people were crammed into narrow streets and tenement blocks, with conditions so grim that social reformers documented the area in detail. Charles Booth's poverty maps painted the Old Nichol black — the lowest category on his charts — and journalist Arthur Morrison's novel A Child of the Jago drew directly on life there, shocking middle-class readers into awareness.
The London County Council, newly formed in 1889, cleared the slum and replaced it with the Boundary Estate, completed in 1900. Red-brick mansion blocks were arranged around generous green spaces and tree-lined walks — a radical, almost utopian vision at the time. Its most photographed feature, Arnold Circus at the centre, was built on rubble from the demolished slum and remains a small circular garden ringed by benches, bandstand and plane trees.
There's an irony worth knowing if you visit: many of the displaced Old Nichol residents couldn't actually afford to live in the new model housing, and moved to neighbouring streets instead. The estate has since become sought-after — flats here occasionally change hands for eye-watering sums — and the area is now firmly inside Hackney's fashionable strip, close to Columbia Road's Sunday flower market and Spitalfields.
For travellers, it's an easy add-on to a Shoreditch or Brick Lane wander. Sit on Arnold Circus with a coffee on a Sunday, browse the vintage shops nearby, then step into the side streets to admire the brick detailing and the little park that rose from one of Victorian London's most infamous addresses.