Pokhara had a rough patch. Flooding on the Trisuli and Budi Gandaki rivers pushed a wave of tour groups to cancel their trips, and Nepal's best-known tourist town felt the pinch. But two things turned the mood around during Dasain week: exceptionally clear weather and a genuine game-changer for access — direct international flights between Pokhara and Dubai.

That new air link matters more than it might first appear. Until now, virtually every visitor to Pokhara had to funnel through Kathmandu first, adding a domestic connection, extra cost and often a long layover. Now trekkers bound for the Annapurnas and Upper Mustang are flying straight in, skipping the capital entirely. For travellers, that means less time in transit and more time at the foot of the mountains. For Pokhara's hotels, guides and restaurants, it opens up the Middle East and Europe as markets that previously required a two-flight slog.

The town remains the classic staging point for international and Nepali hikers heading up into the mountains, and this season the trails to two spots in particular are drawing the crowds: Annapurna North Base Camp and Mardi Himal. Both are shorter, quieter alternatives to the busier classic routes, which explains their appeal among trekkers looking for big Himalayan scenery without the bottleneck.

One caveat worth flagging: the spell of glorious weather that lifted spirits during Dasain was never going to hold. Forecasts around that time called for heavy rain and snow from Thursday through Saturday — a reminder that Himalayan autumn weather can flip quickly, and that anyone heading out on the trails should build buffer days into an itinerary and keep an eye on local forecasts.

Who is this for? If you've been weighing up an Annapurna-region trek but put off by the logistics of getting there, the Dubai connection removes the main friction. Travellers from Europe and the Gulf can now land, transfer and be lakeside in Pokhara the same day. Combine that with trending routes like Mardi Himal — a ridge walk with close-up Annapurna views that can be done in under a week — and the case for a shoulder-season trip gets stronger. Just pack for four seasons in one day, and check trail conditions before setting off, especially if rain or snow is in the forecast.

Word via Nepali Times.