Deep in western Nepal, far from the crowds on Everest, a Swedish-Norwegian climbing team is hunting for summits that no one has ever stood on. Fredrik Strang of Sweden and Sindre Kolbjornsgard of Norway have travelled to the Karnali and Chandi ranges, where they plan first ascents of several unnamed 6,000-metre peaks that have never seen a climber.
The pair spent months preparing for the trip, and they're keeping the exact objectives close to their chests. Strang has said he'll publish a full report once they're home, though he did reveal one breadcrumb: the team passed Saipal Peak, a 7,031-metre giant that dominates the far-western skyline, on the way to base camp. He's also shared a photo of one of their target peaks on social media — conveniently, without naming it.
Winter conditions are making life hard. Recent storms have blanketed the region in deep, soft snow, a problem common to many teams in Nepal right now. Heavy, unconsolidated snow makes every step exhausting and raises avalanche risk on anything steep. Still, the expedition isn't stuck at base camp: on Tuesday the two climbers ticked off an unclimbed 5,177-metre peak as a warm-up, saving their main 6,000-metre objectives for when the snow settles and stabilises.
What makes this story interesting for travellers is the region itself. Western Nepal sees a tiny fraction of the country's tourism. While trekkers pack the Everest and Annapurna trails, the Karnali province offers genuine wilderness: high passes, villages with almost no tourist infrastructure, and mountains that remain unnamed, let alone climbed. Saipal Base Camp treks exist but are rare — a proper expedition-style undertaking rather than a teahouse stroll. If the idea of Nepal before the trekking boom appeals, this is the part of the country where that still exists.
For now, the two alpinists are waiting out the snowpack, watching their main peaks and planning their push. Whatever they manage to climb, their report should shed rare light on one of the least-documented corners of the Himalaya.
Story via ExplorersWeb.