Madeira is a steep, green island in the Atlantic where the weather can shift from sunshine to cloud within a few kilometres — and where you sleep matters more than on most holidays. A new guide to the Portuguese island breaks down six areas, from city-centre convenience to quiet northern nature.
For first-timers, the advice is simple: base yourself in Funchal, the capital. The historic Zona Velha (Old Town) is walkable, packed with restaurants and wine bars, and serves as the pickup point for most island sightseeing tours. The writer's top pick is Barceló Funchal Oldtown, a stylish hotel with a rooftop pool on a pedestrian street, from around €200 a night. Splashier options include the minimalist TURIM Santa Maria Hotel (rooms from €350) and the adults-only PortoBay Santa Maria on the waterfront. Budget travellers can get an apartment at Apartamentos Turísticos Atlântida from about €90 — the author stayed there and praised the space, kitchen and balcony.
Just west of the centre, São Martinho offers a calmer, resort-style stay with bigger hotels, pools and sea views, while still within about 20 minutes' walk of downtown. Tour pickups also run here, so a car isn't necessary. The luxury pick is The Cliff Bay, a five-star clifftop property with a Michelin-starred restaurant and spa, from roughly €330 a night.
Elsewhere on the island, the choices depend on what kind of trip you want. Calheta suits families chasing beach time and sunshine, with the hillside Hotel Jardim Atlantico as a peaceful option. Ponta do Sol is a small, sunny seaside town with a black pebble beach — Enotel Sunset Bay sits right across from the waterfront. Divers and snorkellers should look at Caniço on the southeast coast, near the clear waters of the Garajau Marine Reserve, where Sentido Galosol pairs a modern resort with a good spa. And for scenery lovers, the rugged, lush north coast is the pick, though it's cooler and wetter; Solar de Boaventura, with its heated indoor pool, makes a charming rural base.
Two practical notes shape the whole decision. Public buses are geared to locals rather than sightseers, and the island's steep, winding roads make driving challenging — so guided tours work well if you stay in Funchal, but outside the capital you'll almost certainly want a rental car. And book early: the best hotels sell out months ahead, with three to four months in advance cited as the sweet spot for rates and availability.
Who is this for? Anyone planning a Madeira trip who wants their hotel choice to match their itinerary — urban foodies, pool loungers, underwater explorers or hikers — rather than guessing from a map.
