A village of fewer than 200 people sits near the geographic centre of Exmoor National Park in southwest England, and it packs in more history per square metre than places ten times its size. Withypool, roughly an hour and a quarter north of Exeter between Barnstaple and Doniford, is the kind of spot most travellers drive past on the way to somewhere louder — which is precisely its appeal.
The layers of history here run from the Bronze Age to the Second World War. Two bowl barrows — ancient burial mounds — sit in the village commons, and just outside town hides a stone circle of 29 knee-high stones that barely break the grass. Finding them is half the fun; visitors tend to keep score of how many they've spotted. Chaucer worked as a local forester here, and decades later, Allied generals — including Dwight Eisenhower after D-Day — stayed at the Royal Oak Inn, an 18th-century pub that has housed guests for over three centuries. A former owner is even said to have inspired M in the James Bond novels.
Exmoor itself covers 267 square miles of moorland, cliffs above the Bristol Channel, wildflower fields and free-roaming ponies, stitched together by 830 miles of public footpaths. Weather changes fast, so pack for several seasons in one day.
From Withypool, the River Barle sets the walking agenda. Follow it west to Landacre Bridge, believed to date from the late medieval period, or head east to the Tarr Steps — an ancient clapper bridge whose stone slabs weigh up to two tons, making it one of the oldest bridges in Britain. Legend says the devil built it and cursed anyone who dared cross. An eight-mile circular walk takes in the countryside and crosses at the Tarr Steps before returning to the village.
Anglers are well served too. The River Barle holds salmon, trout, grayling and eel (permit required), while Hacche Moore Fishery, about 20 minutes southwest, stocks three lakes with carp up to 30 pounds. License-free sea fishing on the northern coast offers bass, cod, whiting and skate.
Practicalities: fly into Bristol Airport, then rent a car for the 70-mile drive — public transport options are limited, and a car is genuinely the best way to explore the park. Detour via Dunster, another Exmoor village with shops and a castle. Stay at the Royal Oak Inn for the full historic experience, or pick from several small private accommodations in the village. In spring through autumn, the Withypool Tearooms — a former gas station — serve oversized scones with local jam, and the weather is at its best. When you're ready to move on, the twin coastal villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, 16 miles north, add sea air and views of Exmoor's cliffs.
Withypool suits travellers who like their countryside quiet, their walks long and their pubs old. It takes effort to reach, but that's exactly why it stays this peaceful.
