Day four of the Camino Primitivo starts the way pilgrims hope most days will: a 6:30 alarm, a quick breakfast, rain jackets on just in case, and then a steep climb out of town. The reward for that early effort? Walking above the fog line, no rain in sight, and the first proper sunrise of the trip — with sunscreen actually needed for once.
This stretch of the Camino Primitivo is a reminder of why walkers choose this older, quieter route over the busier Camino Francés. Around 70% of the day unfolded on genuine dirt paths rather than tarmac, concrete or paved stone — a ratio that makes a big difference to your feet and your mood. The trailside scenery kept up the pace: wildflowers in bloom, wide views opening up as the mist burned off, and plenty of baby cows grazing close to the path. Small wonders helped too, including a tiny snail riding piggyback on a larger one.
The day's landmark moment came at a trail junction where the Primitivo meets the Hospitales route, marked by a memorably odd piece of trail folk art: a wooden bench carved with a scallop shell on one side and — inexplicably — Yoda from Star Wars rendered as a Buddha, complete with a ladybug, a flower and an engraved quote. It's the kind of spontaneous trail culture that makes the Camino feel like a moving village.
Weather-conscious pilgrims here face a choice: push up and over the mountain, or take the bypass route used in bad conditions. The writer's group opted for the bypass, ending the day at Albergue Los Hospitales, a shared-room stop with a porch made for lingering. Beer and olives in hand, they watched the view, admired the golf course laid out below the yard, and sat down to a pilgrim dinner of tomato salad followed by a surprisingly enormous plate of rice and chicken.
Evenings on the Camino are as social as the walking days are solitary, and this one delivered: a conversation with a Pole hiking with his father, then shared-room chat with an Australian couple and a German walker. A good night's sleep followed — which, on a long-distance trail, is its own kind of landmark.
Why should a traveller care? The Camino Primitivo is the original pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, crossing Asturias and Galicia in northern Spain with tougher terrain and far smaller crowds than the Francés. This day captures its appeal: real mountain walking, albergue culture that turns strangers into friends, and small surprises — carved benches included — you'd never find on a motorway-side alternative. If you have two to three weeks and want the authentic Camino experience with a physical edge, this is the route for you.
