Britain finally has a proper luxury sleeper train. The Belmond Britannic Explorer departs London Victoria and winds through England and Wales on multi-day routes that mix scenery, food and heritage, with everything bar the spa bundled into the fare.
There are three main route themes to choose from. The Lake District itinerary leans into northern food culture; Welsh routes showcase the great outdoors; and Cornwall trips have an art focus. Whispers of a Northumberland route — castle country — suggest more is coming. The writer sampled the three-night, four-day Lake District journey, which included time at the Graythwaite Estate and its mansion, boat rides, walks, and a visit to chef Simon Rogan's farm, before a finale gala dinner at the three-Michelin-starred Waterside Inn, complete with a kitchen visit.
The train itself has 18 en suite cabins, each with a shower, toilet and sink, and seating for two by day that converts into beds at night. Cabins are cosy rather than cavernous — rails impose limits — but most passengers spend their waking hours in the dining and observation carriages anyway. Two dining cars, Malva and Samphire, serve menus curated by Simon Rogan MBE, with dishes and wines drawn from whichever region the train is passing through. Travelling through Yorkshire on a Sunday, for example, meant a proper roast with a very good Yorkshire pudding. Meals sometimes happen off-train during excursions, and allergies and preferences are catered for.
A practical worry — will you actually sleep? — turns out to be a non-issue. Each night the train parks in sidings around the country, and it runs on slower heritage and private lines rather than high-speed National Rail track, so there's no jarring rocking. One reviewer reports sleeping like a dream.
The pre-trip experience is unusually hands-on: after booking, the train manager contacts you to sort excursion requests and packing advice, so there's little to organise yourself. Dress code is relaxed by day and smart-casual by evening (jacket for men), with a glam-up final night. Pack light — one suitcase plus a small carry-on is the sweet spot, though Belmond will store extra luggage for international travellers. Bring a coat, layers and decent walking shoes, because English weather does what English weather does. Solo travellers should note there's no single supplement.
Who's it for? Anyone who wants the golden-age-of-rail experience without roughing it — food lovers especially, given the Rogan connection and region-driven menus. The all-inclusive pricing (food, drinks and daily excursions covered; only spa treatments cost extra) means you can genuinely switch off once aboard. The verdict from those who've ridden it: an easy yes.
