Somewhere between Portomarin and Palas de Rei, a hiker got so wrapped up in a new friend's life story that they walked straight past their own accommodation and had to double back. That's the Camino Francés in a nutshell: the miles are long, the conversation is better.
Day 31 of this trek covered 15.7 miles through Galicia, taking the walkers' total to over 444 miles since they set off. They left Portomarin at 7am under fog and cool temps, crossing the river and heading straight into a steep forest climb. The woods were thick with pine, moss and ferns — the writer compares it to stretches of the Appalachian Trail, which is high praise from someone who has clearly walked a lot of it.
The morning mixed ancient dirt paths with paved country roads, at one point running alongside a busy highway past large pig farms. The nose knows. After a café stop in the hamlet of Castromajor — packed with pilgrims now that the route is close to Sarria — the trail narrowed into a dirt lane between low stone walls, quiet villages and a steady upward grind.
One detail matters more than it sounds: in the final 100 kilometres before Santiago, pilgrims must collect at least two stamps per day in their pilgrim passport to qualify for the Compostela certificate. Conveniently, this stretch is well set up for it. One village had a German volunteer group handing out free coffee and stamping passports on the spot.
By late afternoon the crowds had thinned dramatically. Most walkers had already stopped for the night, leaving the trail almost empty for the final two miles into Palas de Rei, a small city perched on a steep hill. The night's base was a simple apartment above a bar — a classic Camino arrangement — and dinner was pizza topped with fresh Galician seafood, prompting the firm verdict that Spanish pizza is its own genre, not a knock-off Italian.
Lights out by hiker midnight: 7:30pm. Anyone who has slept in Spain will recognise the hero of the evening, the persiana — the heavy rolling metal shutter that blocks light and street noise while still letting air through a cracked window. For Camino walkers staying above busy village bars, mastering it is a genuine skill.
Why it matters: the last stretch into Santiago is the busiest part of the whole Camino, and this stage shows exactly what to expect — crowds thicken after Sarria, albergues fill early, and small logistics like daily passport stamps become part of the routine. It's a good preview for anyone planning the popular 100km final section, and a reminder that the trail's best entertainment often comes from the people walking it with you. Just keep one eye on your turn-off.
