Few filmmakers have shaped recent French cinema as fast as Céline Sciamma. In under two decades and just five features, the writer-director has built a body of work on childhood, desire, identity and memory — and this summer the Centre Pompidou gave her the full treatment with 'Céline Sciamma: Action poétique', the first major retrospective of her career, staged at the MK2 Bibliothèque cinema in Paris with screenings, masterclasses and a brand-new short film.

Her story starts in Pontoise, just north of Paris, where she was born in 1978. After studying screenwriting at La Fémis, the country's elite film school, she turned her graduation script into Water Lilies (2007), a debut about synchronised swimming and first love in the Paris suburbs that premiered at Cannes. Tomboy (2011) followed, a tender look at childhood gender identity, then Girlhood (2014), which follows black teenage girls coming of age in the banlieue — a film notable for letting its characters be funny and complicated rather than reduced to social issues.

Then came the breakthrough. Portrait of a Lady on Fire (2019), set on an isolated Breton island in the late 18th century, tells of a forbidden romance between a painter and the woman she's hired to portray. It won Best Screenplay at Cannes and became an international hit, admired for its restraint and its celebrated take on the female gaze. Along the way Sciamma also wrote the screenplay for the Oscar-nominated animation My Life as a Courgette (2016), and in 2021 directed Petite Maman, a small, beloved film about childhood, grief and memory. At 47, she's firmly among France's most important working directors.

For travellers, this is a good excuse to build a trip around French film. The MK2 Bibliothèque sits by the François-Mitterrand national library in the 13th arrondissement, a part of Paris most visitors skip — handy for cheap eats, canal-side walks and easy métro access. And the films themselves double as a route map: the swim-club suburbs of Water Lilies, the Breton coast that doubles for Portrait's windswept island, and the sunlit interiors of Petite Maman. Even if the retrospective has wrapped, Sciamma's five features make an excellent watchlist before any trip to France — or a reason to seek out Paris's repertory cinemas, which program French directors year-round.