A short stretch of two-lane highway in eastern Kansas offers something increasingly rare: a look at what the Great Plains looked like before farming and towns took over. The Flint Hills National Scenic Byway runs 47 miles along Kansas Highway 177 between Council Grove and Cassoday, cutting through one of the world's last surviving tracts of tallgrass prairie. You could drive it in an hour, but you really shouldn't.

The road's southern anchor, Cassoday, calls itself the prairie chicken capital of the world — a nod to the colorful ground-dwelling birds that thrive in the surrounding grassland. But most travellers will want to start at the northern end in Council Grove, a town where the byway crosses the historic Santa Fe Trail. Its downtown holds the 1857 Hays House, billed as the oldest restaurant west of the Mississippi, plus antique shops, a retro soda fountain, and a riverside walk that connects to the 118-mile Flint Hills Trail.

Before hitting the road, stop at the Kaw Mission State Historic Site on the north edge of town. The stone building dates to 1851, when it served briefly as a school for Kanza boys after the tribe was moved onto a small reservation here in 1846; the Kanza were later forcibly relocated to Oklahoma in the 1870s. Admission is free, and it's open Wednesday through Sunday.

Seventeen miles south sits the trip's headline act: Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. Nearly 11,000 acres protect a landscape that once covered roughly 170 million acres of North America. Today it supports more than 500 plant species, nearly 150 bird species — and a wild bison herd. Trails range from the easy 1.9-mile Southwind Nature Trail to longer routes with sweeping overlooks, and photogenic relics like the Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse dot the property. No camping inside the preserve, but Cottonwood Falls and Chase State Fishing Lake have options nearby.

The towns along the way make the drive worth stretching over a day and a half. Strong City, three miles south of the preserve, hosts the Flint Hills Rodeo — by its own account the longest continuously running rodeo in Kansas — over three days in late May or early June, complete with a Saturday parade. Just two miles further, Cottonwood Falls charms with its 1873 limestone courthouse (the oldest still in use in Kansas), a pedestrian bridge by the town's namesake cascade, and guesthouses like The Lark Inn's restored 19th-century properties.

About three miles south of town, the Schrumpf Hill Scenic Overlook — marked only as "Kansas Scenic View" on Google Maps — delivers the route's best photo of the rolling grasslands, with a paved path and interpretive panels.

This is a road trip for people who like their scenery quiet and their history layered: prairie ecosystem, Native American heritage, Santa Fe Trail lore, and small-town Americana all in under 50 miles. It pairs easily with Wichita or Topeka via Interstate 35 at the Cassoday end, and spring or fall visits catch the grass at its most photogenic.